C1268 ошибка тойота lc200

I already found that problem is 99.99999% in transfer actuator assembly. See picture. It is on back side on gearbox below the car.
Though it is now in H4 mode (thanx God! car going «fast») 4WD ecu probably reports it is in L4 mode. So it says Check VSC system.
Then finally somehow it finds out it is really in H4 after driving the car so errors (Xmas tree) on dashboard disappeare. But DTC C1268 remains and not possible to clear.

We can not change H4 L4 (we did once, do not do it unless you know car is OK). We could not get back to H4 to use the LC200 normally, real pain in ass. Then next day driving L4 (50km/h) leaving car in parking place re-think all what is going on — we retried and wuala! It is back on H4 but with C1268. This error must have been there already for ages as sometimes starting the car we got Xmas tree. Switching off, waiting 10 seconds and it was gone. Until now always.

It is very likely contacts in transfer shift assembly below the car is damaged by water? It is the bottom part with small DC motor like from RC model. It can act as a small swimming pool for water that could get in. I can imagine it easily: connector is upward, so if connector is not sealed well then water can gradually collect inside leaking in around contacts. Until now did not have chance to look at it.

To remove complete transfer shift assembly is nonsense as half of automatic gear box would have to be removed!!!!

Toyota!!????? Are your designers complete!?

I attach picture. If anybody knows if it is possible only to remove DC motor responsible for H4L4 transfers? I am sure it is damaged by water inside. It is a bottom part of transfer shift assembly. Top part is for locking center differential with its own second DC motor.

I am aware that toothed wheel with contacts MUST remain in the car otherwise there is a risk the wheel after reassembly would not be in a correct position. Also neutral contact is driven by metal round shaped piece attached to this wheel.

I need to remove only bottom cover with small DC motor and small gears. The big toothed wheel MUST remain inside as it has got on it «preprogrammed» contacts controlling final position of rod with forks moving wheels inside car automatic gear box.

It seems that critical wheel must be somehow mechanically held in position above always in mechanical contact with teeth on the rod as it can not sit on the spring electrical contacts!?

Has anybody ever opened/removed bottom cover from actuator? How to do it? Not to remove that critical wheel.

On the picture it is seen clearly that circles on the bottom part with motor are conductive and on them those spring contacts on critical wheel are moving sending info about position to the 4WD ecu.

Just underline again: I want to remove piece on bottom left part of the picture. I know neutral contact
might be also a problem, but now it is in correct position H4 so it should not be in mechanical contact.
For reassembly I to not see this as a problem — some sticky tape can help that can later be pulled out
before final closing.

Thank everybody for possible help. I can add more info if needed.

Thank you for response. What you suggest is 3000 usd (?) solution. Or even more. I am in Slovakia and we still
have «early» capitalismus so it might be even more expensive.

If I manage to keep wheel with spring mechanizmus in its position there is no problem with lining or timing.
The dc motor with small gears can be in whatever position — there is no start no end position for it . Start stop is
given by spring contacts and neutral contact.

Thanx again for advice but I would like to try cheap version. Car is 2008 and no intention increase its value 20%.

Has anybody already opened actuator?

I too am having the same issue in a 2009 LC. I would love to know if anyone has successfully repaired the actuator over replacing it.

The root of this issue is much like the more common transfer case flashing CEL. It’s a non-descript electro-mechanical issue within the contacts of the actuator. May be able to sort it out by exercising the mechanism, but it’ll likely come back regularly.

Fix is to get into the actuator. There’s a number of wiper switches and micro limiter switches that are not working consistently, producing a «not credible» state as reported by the ECU.

Fix details:

The root of this issue is much like the more common transfer case flashing CEL. It’s a non-descript electro-mechanical issue within the contacts of the actuator. May be able to sort it out by exercising the mechanism, but it’ll likely come back regularly.

Fix is to get into the actuator. There’s a number of wiper switches and micro limiter switches that are not working consistently, producing a «not credible» state as reported by the ECU.

Fix details:

Thanks! — This is awesome. I’m new to the Land Cruiser, but have tinkered on other vehicles in the past. Your linked post is exceptional. If I work up the courage to tackle this on my own, I will make a video to accompany the above post.