Форд транзит ошибка 1608

День добрый. Прошу помощи в решении головоломки.
Итак, имеем: Ford Transit 2000 г.в. 2.4 120 л.с. с насосом VP-44. Необходимо заменить вышедший из строя насос.

Что делал: у меня было в наличии 4 насоса. Один восстановленный и обнуленный привезен из Англии остальные три — просто б.у. насосы. Хозяин согласился поставить тот что «восстановленный». Ставлю на машину, подключаю провода и трубки. Включаем зажигание и видим: индикатор PATS как и положено тухнет через 3 секунды («насос обнулен, все хорошо» — подумал я), но на приборке мигает спираль. Подключаюсь IDS’ом и получаю только одну ошику P1608. И она не стирается, все навесное (клапан EGR и его вакуумный клапан, ДПКВ и т.д.) подключено. Пробуем заводить — не заводится (да, соляра прокачана). Бракованный насос? Пробуем подключить один из б.у. насосов к фишке не снимая того что уже стоит. Подключил, включаю зажигание и…. индикатор PATS гаснет через 3 сек как на обнуленном насосе, а не судурожно мигает, говоря о том что не адаптирован насос или PCM!!! На приборке так же мигает спираль и та же нестираемая ошибка P1608. Пробовал подключить оставшиеся насосы — результаты те же. Ну не может же быть что все 4 насоса неисправны?!? Пробовал подружить насосы с PATS’ом, но после ввода out-кода, процедура «обнуления» завершалась через секунд 5 вместо положенных 10 минут (пробовал и кодированный доступ и доступ по времени — результата нет). Вытащил жгут проводов, что шел от двигателя до большего разъема возле коробки с предохранителями. Разобрал. Никаких потертостей, окислений и переломов. Прозвонил — все звонится. Поставил жгут на место и прозвонил от фишки насоса до PCM — все звонится. Вытащил и разобрал сам PCM, прозвонил «наружние» пины с местами пайки на плате — тоже все хорошо. Заметил что если снять фишку с насоса и включить зажигание то питание на контактах 6 и 7 есть, если подключить фишку к новому насосу, включить зажигание то питание на контактах 6 и 7 появляется секунды на 2 и потом становится 2,5 вольт. А если подключить его родной насос и включить зажигание то питание на насосе есть постоянно и нет ошибки P1608 (да, есть другие ошибки, но потому насос и меняется)

Итого: что посоветуете? Искать пятый насос? ;D Ни разу не сталкивался с такой ерундой и честно говоря идеи уже кончилсь.

Ошибка по иммо. Уверен, что аглицкий насос был с обнуленным иммошником? Я ставил обнуленным насос. Он сразу подхватил иммо и ошибок не было. По поводу напруги на 6 и 7, там РСМ сначала дает питание, чтоб иммошник в насосе сравнить, как тока сравнение не проходит, он питание снимает, и такое не тока по иммошнику, а еще по нескольким ошибкам. ИДС Китай ? Китаезы не все прописывают насосы, зависит от качества клона. Я прописывал дешевеньким Фокомом — на удивление прописывался. Что с мозгами родного насоса? Если в насосе полетела механика или клапан, то мона на новый насос нахлобучить мозги от старого привязанного. Какие там ошибки в старом насосе?
Ну или искать где прописать насос. КТС , ИДС , либо шнурок Фоком. Я смотрю кальк оуткодов есть в наличии.

Андрей, в тему насосов наверно надо перекинуть.

roma strussa, Вы читать то что уже написано умеете, или только вопросы задавать можете?

OAM67:Ошибка по иммо.

Re: Transit 2000 2.4 и ошибка p1608

Been to see Martyn this afternoon, to try and diagnose my vans issues which are — Occasional non-start, worse when really cold overnight. When over 5 C, starts first turn usually!

Throttle response is a bit flat, revs hold for too long in 1st/2nd gears, lacks any decent power over 3k but mid-range fine.

We read the codes and had P0335, P1563, P1608 and P1669. After clearing these, on the 2nd go P1563 P1608 and P1669 came up, this was after the crank sensor was unplugged and plugged back in again.

On resetting again, only P1608 came back up. FIP watchdog or something, cannot find the exact meaning at the moment.

Van has had a factory recon pump in the past, also 4 injectors apparantly.

Runs great otherwise, good on fuel etc, determined to get to the bottom of it and have it running 100%.

Any help/advice please?

Gareth

If its FIP watchdog signal lost,and your talking about the van in your sig e.g a front wheel drive.

Either you have a wiring fault between pump & pcm (wiring prone to rubbing thru & breaking on starter rear case) or it could be the pump itself.

If its had a pump,wiring could be the fault,people fit pumps for this reason when it`s wiring thats buggered.

On final code clear did you just end up with that one code?

Frag wrote:If its FIP watchdog signal lost,and your talking about the van in your sig e.g a front wheel drive.

Either you have a wiring fault between pump & pcm (wiring prone to rubbing thru & breaking on starter rear case) or it could be the pump itself.

If its had a pump,wiring could be the fault,people fit pumps for this reason when it`s wiring thats buggered.

On final code clear did you just end up with that one code?

Hi Frag, yes its a FWD. And yes, just the P1608 code every time, nothing else. Engine has been jetwashed in the past, i suspect possibly some damp, increased resistance when cold causes a poorer signal? Martyn recommended i pull the pump multi-plug off and check for a decent connection. I reckon i’ll have to take a few things out to get better access?

Thanks

Gareth

Easier to do from underneath (otherwise its manifold off really).
Also easier to drop starter motor off too,before disturbing owt,have a very close look at wiring loom to pump where it comes down over end casing of starter (left hand end looking from front).

Lift it up off starter & see if its been rubbing,will be more apparent once starter is off,chafes thru outer loom & cloth/tin foil like insulation,water gets into the wire it corrodes & breaks.

Just strip insulation of that very short section above starter end plate & have a look while your messing,check connector onto pump also for issues.

Frag wrote:Easier to do from underneath (otherwise its manifold off really).
Also easier to drop starter motor off too,before disturbing owt,have a very close look at wiring loom to pump where it comes down over end casing of starter (left hand end looking from front).

Lift it up off starter & see if its been rubbing,will be more apparent once starter is off,chafes thru outer loom & cloth/tin foil like insulation,water gets into the wire it corrodes & breaks.

Just strip insulation of that very short section above starter end plate & have a look while your messing,check connector onto pump also for issues.

I had the starter off not long ago, it was a pain to refit as the wiring was so tight, and its possible they could be in the condition you mention. How common is this problem?

Not very,done possibly 5/6 but most people don`t know about it or sort them……..

They chuck £700 of pump then labour at them first……..

Frag wrote:Not very,done possibly 5/6 but most people don`t know about it or sort them……..

They chuck £700 of pump then labour at them first……..

Does help to have an open mind with these things. Would an oscillope show up the problem with wiring? And how would i check it with this method?

Many thanks for your help so far.

Gareth

You could simply check resistance between pump connector & pcm connector using a normal multi-meter.

PCM plug comes off easily under bonnet,1 10 mm bolt,still need pump connector of though.

Also check for continuity on same wire to earth with both plugs off,could be earthing on starter.

I`ve found & cured all mine without doing any of that & going for visual inspection first,sometimes if fault is intermittant or comes & goes with engine movement ,resistance check`s won`t show fault.
Only if wire is completely broken/open circuit……..

Frag wrote:You could simply check resistance between pump connector & pcm connector using a normal multi-meter.

PCM plug comes off easily under bonnet,1 10 mm bolt,still need pump connector of though.

Also check for continuity on same wire to earth with both plugs off,could be earthing on starter.

I`ve found & cured all mine without doing any of that & going for visual inspection first,sometimes if fault is intermittant or comes & goes with engine movement ,resistance check`s won`t show fault.
Only if wire is completely broken/open circuit……..

I see. When you have repaired these, have the faults been similar to mine, i.e occasional non-start and poor driveability?

One other thought, my temp gauge never reads just below half way like my other van, and the fuel gauge never reads full the same either. In the past, this has always pointed to an earth or similar issue, do you think this could be related?

Gareth

Frag, your right! Well, i havent solved the issue yet but almost certain! Thanks also to Martyn, which without the help of diagnostics would not have been able to put me in the right area.

I took the resonater box off the top of the engine to get better access to the multi-plug on the injection pump, also moved the EGR pipe.

Multi-plug looked squeeky clean, so i then progressed to the removal of the starter motor, easy as it was off a few weeks back and the bolts came undone with my finger.

Once removed, i pulled the wire down and was greeted by an awful sight, the silver insulating cover had rubbed straight through and i could see one of the wires underneath which was corroded. When i stripped the stuff back, this wire is almost completely non-existant, all you can see is a hole inside the wires insulation. This is a white/green wire, there is a red/blue wire which has just started to rub, but the copper is fresh so i will tape this one up, the other wire needs cutting back and soldering, need to think of the best solution for this.

Gareth

sootymax wrote:nice one m8 if i were you id take the whole engine loom off so you can do a better repair on the bench

In the summer time, yes, in this current climate with severe windchill, i’ll give it a miss!

Have cut the wire, there was nothing left of it at all so no connection, have trimmed it back and used a butt connecter for the time being and get it all taped up, it should sort it out for a few months and then i will get it repaired properly.

Never had the engine stall apart from starting when it wanted to catch but then stopped.

The starting is now spot on, every time and i have tried loads since the wire has been fixed, its been on the button. A good sign was it starting 1st time once it was reassembled.

Managed to miss most of the snow, so pretty pleased as its the first bit of progress in weeks thats actually done something.

The revs still hang a bit longer than i am used to, and the speed limiter stills works despite diagnostics saying it wasnt enabled, so i think its now time to get the ECU flashed and uploaded again, or maybe a completely new map altogether….

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