Right dipped headlight audi ошибка - Исправление ошибок и поиск оптимальных решений проблем

30 ноя 2013

40

Санкт-Петербург

A4/B9 2.0/249q 2017
Господа, помогите разобраться.
Прошлым летом стала умирать лампа ближнего света в левой фаре: в произвольный момент на панели появлялась ошибка и фара гасла, но после перезапуска или выключения/включения загоралась снова.
Поехал в ОД (Ауди Центр Петроградский). Посмотрели, сказали, что дело в старой умирающей лампе и поменяли ее. Цена вопроса: 14000р! (Могу смету приложить, если кому интересно.) Так как правая лампа того же возраста, ее тоже, сказали, нужно будет менять скоро. Она, к тому же, светит уже менее ярко, чем новая и более розовым светом.

Я решил, что не хочу еще раз 14тр платить и поменяю сам. Окей, в ноябре купил на этом сайте оригинальную D3S Philips для Audi: 4300K и цифры на обороте такие же, как и на моей старой. В VAG-овской коробочке пришла с правильным кодом N10566103. Поставил. Прошло недель шесть и началось: опять та же ошибка про dipped/main beam headlight теперь уже про правую фару — обычно через 5-15 мин поездки. Выключением/включением зажигается снова.
При этом лампа, которую я поставил, светит ощутимо синее и тусклее той, что ставил ОД (см. фото, слева — лампа, которую купил и поставил сам).

Как быть? В лампе ли дело? Ругаться с продавцом, что продали товар, несоответствующий маркировке? Где купить 100% правильную лампу?
В ОД не хочу, лишних 10тр нет сейчас.
Спасибо!
Вложения:
19 июн 2010

19.986

А6/С6 3.0i Q 05

Если сразу после замены горела правильным светом, то тебе просто не повезло с лампочкой. Возможно левак какой-то…
Если хочешь убедиться на 110% что виновата именно лампа, нужно левую поменять на правую.

Stop hovering to collapse…
Click to collapse…

Hover to expand…
Нажмите, чтобы раскрыть…
менял себе на той неделе. Брал сразу пару 4500 рублей обошлись обе. Производитель Philips 4300K
23 окт 2014

891

А4/В8 1.8 st2 240hp/380N*m

это еще че)) у меня сначала сгорела лампа, через месяц вторая, а через неделю и вообще блок розжига на фаре )))))))))

Техническое обоснование

Это касается только фар с ксеноновыми лампами производства Philips.

Внутренняя стеклянная колба в месте обжатия электродов может быть негерметична (рис.1).

При повреждении внутренней стеклянной колбы лампы ксенон может выйти.

При отсутствии ксенона электрическая дуга гаснет, и блок управления фары пытается посредством регулировки напряжения сформировать стабильную дугу (при этом возникают вспышки или отсутствие свечения).

Стеклянная колба лампы может разрушиться, поскольку при отсутствии газа дуга может пробить и разрушить стекло.

Решение в условиях сервиса

Внезапный, спорадический выход из строя:

Если клиент заявляет, что фара время от времени не работает, необходимо проверить дату выпуска обеих ксеноновых ламп.

Дата выпуска ксеноновой лампы указана на её обратной стороне (см. рис).

Код K619 (см. маркировку, выделенную красным цветом) означает, что лампа выпущена 19.10.2006.

Пояснение: (читать слева направо)

1. Буквы от A(январь) до M (декабрь), кроме I.

A = январь B= февраль C= март D= апрель E= май F= июнь

G= июль H= август J= сентябрь K= октябрь L= ноябрь M= декабрь

2. Последняя цифра года, например, 6 для 2006 г.

3. Календарный день месяца, например, 19 для 19-го дня.

Для ксеноновых ламп выпуска после 01.01.2010 = для новых 0A01 используется изменённый код.

Пояснение: (читать слева направо)

1. Последняя цифра года, например, 0 для 2010 г (или 1 для 2011 г.).

2. Буква от A(январь) до M (декабрь), кроме I.

3. Календарный день месяца, например, 01 для первого дня месяца.

Если ксеноновые лампы выпущены до 01.06.2008 (код F801) , необходимо заменить обе лампы (даже, если они не проявляют неисправностей).

Если ксеноновые лампы выпущены после 01.06.2008 (код F801) , необходимо заменить только неисправную лампу.

Полный, постоянный отказ:

Если лампа не работает постоянно и всегда, необходимо поменять лампы местами. Если неисправность переходит вместе с лампой, это означает, что она неисправна.

Если неисправность непереходит вместе с лампой, необходимо с помощью ведомого поиска неисправностей проверить блок управления и напряжение питания лампы.

Если при перестановке установлена неисправность одной из ламп, необходимо, в зависимости от даты выпуска лампы (до или после 01.06.2008, код F801), заменить неисправную лампу или обе лампы.

Источник

Do you have an error light on your dashboard that looks like above with a yellow bulb pointing down?

That is known as a “dipped headlight” and this post is written to help you troubleshoot and fix it.

The truth is that even Audi dealerships are notoriously bad at fixing this problem.

Their remedy is typically to suggest replacing the bulbs and ballasts at full retail price, costing you several thousand dollars for a job that is something you could fix yourself for a tenth of the price.

After reading all of my favorite Audi forums, I found a host of information, some of it helpful, some of it conflicting, and some if it misguided. But piecing together the consistent recommendations as well as a little educated guessing and fact checking, I’ve figured out a good approach for anyone who gets this problem in their 2002-2008 Audi A4, S4 or RS4 and wants to try to fix it themselves. The steps listed here will probably also work for other Audis as well, although may differ somewhat.

Since originally posting this I’ve gotten hundreds of comments (literally) with others experiencing this issue on a variety of Audis.

Unfortunately, the dipped headlight warning appears to be a super common issue, and can also point to any number of issues with your headlights.

I’ve also updated this post with revised ideas to help you fix the problem easier, after years of helping others I’ve refined my approach.

First of all, what does “Dipped Headlight” even mean?

Simply put, “Dipped Headlight” is Audi-speak for “there is something wrong with your low beam headlight” and can mean a number of things.

This is part of why it is so difficult to troubleshoot and fix on your own, as the error doesn’t give you much information about what the problem is.

If you have a VAG-COM cable, or know someone who does, the cable can read your car’s computer and tell you the exact error code which will help tremendously. For some people this error message only comes on intermittently, such as when they’re driving slow, when the car first starts up, or in cold weather – for others, it comes on every time.

You can also pickup a cheaper OBD2 scanner on Amazon which can read codes and at least give you a specific error code and message to troubleshoot, like this one for $23.

Regardless this error light is a catch-all warning and therefore not very helpful – which is why this issue is so frustrating to have.

Typically there are several major culprits:

Bad headlight bulbs – the bulb has gone bad, but isn’t completely out.
Bad xenon ballasts – the ballast has started to malfunction, causing the error and likely harming your bulbs too
Bad wiring in the headlight or xenon motor – the wiring and modules within the headlight is somehow damaged
Bad ride height sensor or calibration – if the car can’t sense the right height level of the car, this will trigger an error

What to Check First

There are several things that most commonly cause this error after reading dozens of owners messages on Audizine, Fourtitude, Audiforums and other message boards. I’ve listed them below in the order of how’d I’d recommend checking and testing the problem.

It seems the most common issue is that a ballast has gone bad…the bad ballast then causes damage to the headlight bulb, requiring you to change the bulb too. If you only change one or the other, you do run the risk that you’ll have to replace it again due to damage that occurred.

If you are getting this issue only on one side, i.e. Dipped Headlight Left or Dipped Headlight Right, then this is a big clue for troubleshooting.

To isolate if it is the headlight bulbs, ballasts, or something internal in the headlight itself, simply swap both the bulbs and ballasts from left to right headlight. If the dipped headlight error on your dash changes from “Dipped Headlight Left” to “Dipped Headlight Right” (or vice versa) then you know that the issue lies in either the bulb or ballasts.

If this is the case, you should order one new bulb and one new ballast (using the links in this post) and replace the bad side and you should be good.

I strongly recommend changing both bulbs and ballasts – even if only the ballasts were faulty, the bulbs likely suffered damage from the bad ballasts and will need replaced soon, and replacing bulbs requires the bumper to come off so its best to do this all at once. It also eliminates all possible sources of the dipped headlight error, as this can be a tricky problem to resolve and it’s better to be aggressive on the treatment of it.

If the problem isn’t isolated to one side or another, and the above trick didn’t work, then you’ll need to troubleshoot the problem one by one in the order listed below:

Headlight Bulbs

Typically the best place to start is new headlight bulbs, as they are often the culprit and one of the cheapest and easiest things to fix – even if new headlight bulbs don’t fix the problem, you’ll eventually need to replace them anyway, so consider it preventative maintenance.

If you get the “headlight bulb out” message, see your headlights “flicker” on/off occasionally, or notice that your dipped headlight error only comes on in cold weather or at first start up, it’s likely your headlight bulbs may be on their way out.

Follow this DIY for tips on picking the right bulbs and how to install them: https://www.nickscarblog.com/diy/replacement-d1s-headlight-bulbs-for-b7-audi-a4s4rs4

Headlight Ballasts

The ballasts are also known to fail, which can cause this issue – even worse, the failed ballast burns through bulbs, so if you’ve had a bad ballast for a while then you’ll need new bulbs too. Rumor has it some ballasts have been recalled by Audi, in which case you can check with your dealer to see if your car qualifies for the recall, in which case the service and replacement should be free – problem solved! However, if you’re not covered by recall and your ballasts are indeed bad, then you have a few options:

Have your Ballasts Rebuilt – Contact Phil at tbm850 @ gmail.com – he can rebuild your factory ballasts to fix whatever is wrong, and actually strengthen them so it doesn’t happen again. He only charges $170 per pair for this and can turn it around in about a day then overnight ship it back, so you’re downtime is minimal. I’ve worked with Phil before and he knows the B7 Audi headlights better than pretty much anyone out there, and he’s an airplane mechanic so it’s a professional job.
Buy New OEM ballasts – the ballasts are shared by a lot of manufacturers, so don’t order through Audi. You can pick up the ballasts on Amazon for about $110 a piece:

B6 Ballasts (2002-2005)

B7 Ballasts (2005.5-2008) WITHOUT AFS:

B7 Ballasts (2005.5-2008) WITH AFS: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-magneti-marelli-parts/xenon-bulb-ballast-priced-each/8p0907391~mm/

Either way, I strongly recommend new bulbs if you had a bad ballast, as that bad ballast likely caused premature wear on the bulbs and they’re likely to burn out soon – best to replace both while you already have the headlights off the car!

This is also a great time to do the clear corner mod, LED DRLs, and/or LED City Lights since you’ll have the headlights off the car anyway…

Auto Leveling Sensor

If you recently lowered your car, or hit a really hard bump to your drivers side front or rear wheel, this could be the problem. For cars equipped with auto-levelling sensors, the sensors themselves are located in the wheel wheels near the lower control arms so they can adjust the headlight aiming based on the suspension load. For some people when they lower their car, the sensor is out of range as the suspension has been altered. For others, a hard bump to the front wheel could potentially break the sensor or cause it to become unplugged. To access the sensor, take off your drivers side front wheel and look near the bottom of the suspension. The sensor bridges the lower control arm to the body and looks like this:

If it is damaged or the wires have frayed, you can order a new one here: http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_S4–V8/Lighting/Headlights/Leveling/ES440960/. If you are lowered, you may just need to bend the upper part of the bracket so the top of the sensor is higher again. Once you have inspected and either repaired or replaced the sensor, you will need to recalibrate it using vag-com. Follow this DIY for instructions on how to do that: http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/autolevel.html&category=6

Headlight Swivel Module

This is the issue I had after replacing the bulbs and ruling out that issue. It turns out that while I was replacing my DRL bulbs, I must have knocked the main headlight swivel out of place, preventing the headlights from being able to aim correctly. The swivel is VERY sensitive, so if you’ve been in accident, or were tinkering inside of your headlights too aggressively, it’s possible you broke a swivel arm or knocked it out of alignment. Looking closely at the headlight I could see the projector lens on my driver side was pushed forward and not aligned the same way my passenger side was, so I reached inside the headlight housing (much the same way I did when replacing the bulbs) and pulled the projector lens “back” away from the front of the housing until it clicked back into place. I then recalibrated the headlight adjustment using the DIY on A4mods and cleared the codes and the problem went away: http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/autolevel.html&category=6

If you run the vag-com on your Xenons and find error code 02769 or 02770, it is likely your projector lenses are out of alignment and you may be able to manually push or pull them back into place. It is also possible the motor inside the headlight has malfunctioned or stopped working altogether, in which case you’ll need to buy an entire new headlight housing – like mentioned earlier, eBay is your best bet for that, and expect to pay about $200-300. But hopefully you may just be like me and have to massage the projector lens back into place and reset the headlight adjustment via VAG-com and the problem will go away 🙂

VAG-com adjustments (reset to factory spec)

If you change anything other than the bulb, you may also need to recalibrate your headlights and reset the adjustments to factory. To do this, follow the A4mods.com DIY mentioned earlier. For me, I fixed the projector lens being knocked out of place then recalibrated the headlight adjustments using VAG-com to fix my errors.

The last resort is to pull Fuse #10 if you have adaptive or auto-leveling headlights – this disables the feature entirely, which should also disable the warning light. This isn’t the best way to fix it as your headlights might be out of alignment still, and you lose the adaptive features, but hey – at least it gets rid of that pesky warning light and beeping 🙂

The Last Resort – Replace the Whole Darn Thing

At a certain point, you may be better off replacing the entire headlight assembly as you can usually find complete headlights (including ballasts and bulbs) used on eBay for a reasonable price.

This also covers you in case the problem lies elsewhere in the headlight housing, and since you’re going through the trouble of removing your headlights this is probably worth the extra $100 over the cost of a ballast to not have to remove all of these parts more than once.

If your car is older, chances are it’s pretty easy to find used headlight assemblies on eBay from wrecked cars that work just fine, and they’re usually pretty cheap, or you can pick up a new set on Amazon here:

Make sure you have the right part number prior to ordering – the part number can be found on a white sticker on top of your headlights which you can see simply by opening the hood – compare this to the eBay listing to confirm you’re swapping “apples to apples” with the replacement housing. The biggest thing to watch out for is AFS vs non-AFS, as you can’t mix these up. AFS is Audi’s “curve lighting” system which has its own wiring to power this motor, and switching between them is not easy to do.

To swap out the headlight housings, follow this DIY: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/234131-B7-A4-S4-Clear-Corner-Mod-Removal-of-Bumper

Still stumped? Leave a comment, I’ll do my best to help…

Источник

Forum
Main Model-Line Discussion
B7 A4
Right dipped headlight

01-19-2011 04:54 PM

#1

Senior Member

Two Rings

Right dipped headlight

Well I have done quite a bit of searching and am having a hard time finding my exact symptoms. I get this symbol and it says right dipped headlight. The actual headlight is also out when the symbol pops up. I have seen the other symbol but not mine. The other weird thing is that my headlight does work sometimes and the warning does not show. It is very speratic. I am wondering if anyone else has experienced these symptoms and what the solution to the problem was. Any help I appreciated.

TIA
Chase
01-19-2011 05:06 PM

#2

Veteran Member

Four Rings

9deg.!?!?!
f that…
when i get that little light though i think its because one of my license plate bulbs goes out…
its like a loose connection though because it will go off and on every now and then
01-19-2011 05:23 PM

#3

Veteran Member

Four Rings

Originally Posted by vbrad26

9deg.!?!?!
f that…

i said the same LMAO….
01-19-2011 05:27 PM

#4

Veteran Member

Four Rings

Originally Posted by Schmaud

Well I have done quite a bit of searching and am having a hard time finding my exact symptoms. I get this symbol and it says right dipped headlight. The actual headlight is also out when the symbol pops up. I have seen the other symbol but not mine. The other weird thing is that my headlight does work sometimes and the warning does not show. It is very speratic. I am wondering if anyone else has experienced these symptoms and what the solution to the problem was. Any help I appreciated.[/IMG]

This is «bulb out» not «dipped headlight»

Phil
01-19-2011 05:28 PM

#5

Veteran Member

Four Rings

There is a recall on the HID ballasts i believe. I had mine replaced recently at the dealer for free.

edit: yeah, that is not the dipped light warning. Have it checked out for the recall nonetheless.

2022 BMW F80 ///M4 Competition X-Drive
2021.5 VW Atlas SEL 3.6L 4Motion
Former:
BMW F80 M3 CS
BMW F80 M3
BMW I01 i3 REx
BMW F30 340i M Sport ZTR
Audi B7 S4 25Quattro
Audi B5 A4
01-19-2011 05:37 PM

#6

Established Member

Two Rings

Originally Posted by fly300kts

This is «bulb out» not «dipped headlight»

Phil

When my headlight dips that’s the exact picture I get with the phrase «right/left dipped headlight»
01-19-2011 05:45 PM

#7

Veteran Member

Four Rings

This is «dipped»

Yours is «bulb out»

Phil
01-19-2011 05:54 PM

#8

Established Member

Three Rings

I get the same message as gary said. Right Dipped Headlight followed by the bulb with an X through it. It flickers, flickers some more, then turns off.

Found that my bulbs xenon gas was completely white when I replaced it. If its white its dead.

BTW my cluster said 1 degree the other day, I know that sight all to well. I work outside all day too

2006 A4 Brilliant Black 6MT
— Revo Stage 2+ — AWE HPFP — ST Coils — K&N — 034 TIP — Newsouth Vent Gauge — Neuspeed Snub — OEM DV Upgrade — E-Code test pipe — AWE Quad tip — s4 rear valance — de-badged — vag’d —

—Wake up an address the biggest issue of our freedom. National DEBT.
01-19-2011 06:14 PM

#9

Established Member

Two Rings

Originally Posted by fly300kts

This is «dipped»

Yours is «bulb out»

Phil

I’m aware the difference. But what about the bulb out picture with the message of a dipped headlight? Surely you’re not saying the car just says dipped when the light is actually out because the light isn’t out. This only happens occasionally and while the bulbs are on their way on their way out, they still light up 99.9% of the time
01-19-2011 06:16 PM

#10

Account Terminated

Four Rings

Originally Posted by fly300kts

This is «dipped»

Yours is «bulb out»

Phil

Hate to disagree with you, but this is an auto-level motor malfunction light.

Dipped headlight tells you very specifically in the DIS, RIGHT DIPPED HEADLIGHT, then you get the indicator light in the op.

Op, best way to tell b/t ballast or bulb is to just switch the right bulb with the left one. When you swap them and the left light dips, you know you need to replace your bulb. If you still get the right headlight dipped, your ballast is probably bad and you’d better pray to god you’re under warranty if you’re going the dealer route.
01-19-2011 06:36 PM

#11

Established Member

Two Rings

Dipped headlight in «Audi terminology» means «low beam».
01-19-2011 07:18 PM

#12

Veteran Member

Four Rings

Originally Posted by vbrad26

9deg.!?!?!
f that…

Haha I said the same too, try -20 though holy shit. Was in upstate ny with my buddy (has a b8 a4), never have I seen such a rough shitty start in my life lmao.
01-19-2011 07:35 PM

#13

Senior Member

Two Rings

Originally Posted by Schmaud

this is what happens when my headlight dips too !
01-19-2011 10:29 PM

#14

Senior Member

Two Rings

Originally Posted by brownishwater

Hate to disagree with you, but this is an auto-level motor malfunction light.

Dipped headlight tells you very specifically in the DIS, RIGHT DIPPED HEADLIGHT, then you get the indicator light in the op.

Op, best way to tell b/t ballast or bulb is to just switch the right bulb with the left one. When you swap them and the left light dips, you know you need to replace your bulb. If you still get the right headlight dipped, your ballast is probably bad and you’d better pray to god you’re under warranty if you’re going the dealer route.

Agree with the above. Got the same thing on my DIS when my headlights stopped «dancing» at startup. Took it to the stealership and they changed the auto-levelling motor under warranty.

I get the bulb with an X sporadically when it’s freezing outside; just switch from auto to off and back to auto and it just disapears.
01-19-2011 10:39 PM

#15

Account Terminated

Four Rings

Originally Posted by blkb707

Agree with the above. Got the same thing on my DIS when my headlights stopped «dancing» at startup. Took it to the stealership and they changed the auto-levelling motor under warranty.

I get the bulb with an X sporadically when it’s freezing outside; just switch from auto to off and back to auto and it just disapears.

That will work for a while until the bulb completely goes out.

In my case at least. Worked using that method for about about 6 months, but I just got sick of it and bought new bulbs from DDM ($60 for the pair *special*). No problems since.

I would say the majority of these issues are cause by the bulb, but it never hurts the swap the passenger/driver side bulb to rule out the ballast.
01-20-2011 06:49 AM

#16

Senior Member

Two Rings

Thanks for the help guys I am going to try to swap the bulbs.
01-20-2011 09:08 AM

#17

Veteran Member

Four Rings

Originally Posted by b7kevin

I get the same message as gary said. Right Dipped Headlight followed by the bulb with an X through it. It flickers, flickers some more, then turns off.

I had this same experience when it was extremely cold a couple of weeks ago. The CEL cleared itself the next day but the headlight flickers about once per week or so (has not gone out again). Since I am under CPO, I took it to the dealer and have an appt. this Sat. to have a new bulb installed. They advised me the new bulb would be a different color than my passenger side for a while (burn in).

I do have to relay my experience when taking it in for diagnosis. I advised the Service Coord. of my experience and he brought the technician over. The technician asked the Serv. Coord. several times whether the ballast was included in the Service Bulletin and spent considerable time trying to research it. It was evident to me that he was attempting to find a way to cover the ballast as well as the bulb under the CPO. Although the bulb was the only covered item he could find, I was again impressed with Authohaus of Peoria.
01-23-2011 02:42 PM

#18

Senior Member

Two Rings

New bulb fixed it… for now..
01-24-2011 09:43 AM

#19

Senior Member

Two Rings

I’ve had the same problem. Seems to only happen in the cold weather. When I took it in, the stealership told me I needed to replace the entire headlight even though I told them that the bulb still works.
01-24-2011 05:24 PM

#20

Established Member

Two Rings

Listen to Phil, Your Bulb is out…. D1S bulb, just got this replaced last week from a «Right Dipped Headlight» myself!
01-24-2011 05:39 PM

#21

Veteran Member

Four Rings

Originally Posted by Go Dutch

Listen to Phil, Your Bulb is out…. D1S bulb, just got this replaced last week from a «Right Dipped Headlight» myself!

Glad to see that some people do listen sometimes. Prop to you Sir

Phil
01-24-2011 05:51 PM

#22

Account Terminated

Four Rings

VERY VERY VERY RARELY does the dipped headlight have anything to do with the ballasts. The OEM ballasts are one of the better quality components in our cars.

Just buy a set of new bulbs and call it a day.
01-24-2011 07:38 PM

#23

Veteran Member

Four Rings

Originally Posted by brownishwater

VERY VERY VERY RARELY does the dipped headlight have anything to do with the ballasts. The OEM ballasts are one of the better quality components in our cars.

Just buy a set of new bulbs and call it a day.

Really because I had mine replaced under recall.

2022 BMW F80 ///M4 Competition X-Drive
2021.5 VW Atlas SEL 3.6L 4Motion
Former:
BMW F80 M3 CS
BMW F80 M3
BMW I01 i3 REx
BMW F30 340i M Sport ZTR
Audi B7 S4 25Quattro
Audi B5 A4
01-24-2011 08:27 PM

#24

Account Terminated

Four Rings

Audi recalled the ballasts for certain MY’s because it was their way of «umbrella fixing» the flickering/dipped headlight issue as that is what other manufacturers have done (Lexus, BMW, etc.)

Not sure if it will say on your service record or not, but they shouldve replaced both ballasts and bulbs — the only 2 components that could be causing the problem.

After Audi did the recall, an independent quality control company tested batches of ballasts from MY 2006 — 2008. Less than 2% of production was faulty. Industry average failure rate is around 5%.
01-24-2011 10:39 PM

#25

Senior Member

Three Rings

Originally Posted by Go Dutch

Listen to Phil, Your Bulb is out…. D1S bulb, just got this replaced last week from a «Right Dipped Headlight» myself!

You sir are right, my right headlight would «dip» every other day it happened more often if I went over rough roads. I just replaced both bulbs with a set from sonic tuning off the group buy.

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01-25-2011 10:38 PM

#26

Established Member

Two Rings

Originally Posted by BlackA4Turbo

You sir are right, my right headlight would «dip» every other day it happened more often if I went over rough roads. I just replaced both bulbs with a set from sonic tuning off the group buy.

Yes and some other symptoms would be flickering. Audi will charge you $200 plus for JUST the bulb. so be prepared if you go to the dealership!
02-14-2011 08:44 AM

#27

Established Member

Two Rings

Do you know which year does the ballasts recall cover? I am having the same issues with my driver side.
02-14-2011 10:57 PM

#28

Junior Member

Two Rings

I got left the headlight dipped every single day for 6months+. It was driving me completely crazy (the headlight would actually turn off). The dealership, in trying to figure out what exactly was wrong swapped sides of both the ballast AND bulb (why they did both ya got me). Then it switched to right headlight dipped for a few months…..Then a few days before I got a notice in the mail from AoA that they’ll replace bad bulbs it stopped happening. WTH?! My guess is it’ll start again at 101k miles

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Источник

Hi,

I’m intermittently getting a «right dipped headlight» error message (and the light goes out when this happens), and if I put my fog lights on a «right fog light» out message every time (and the fog light never works). I also have a bit of a flickering going on in the right headlight.

After a bit of googling it appears that this could be down to a bulb, ballast or electrical issue. I’ve ordered new headlight and fog light bulbs so will try them to see if that fixes anything but is there anything else I could do in the meantime?

I’ve had a VCDS log ran on in which looks to me like it could all be electrical, but I’m not very familiar with these logs. The error faults that it shows are:

Code:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 8K (8T0)
Scan: 01 03 05 08 09 10 15 16 17 19 42 46 52 53 55 56 5F 62 72

VIN: -------------------   Mileage: 94970km/59011miles

09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010
55-Xenon Range -- Status: Malfunction 0010

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519)       Labels: 8K0-907-063.clb
   Part No SW: 8K0 907 063 N    HW: 8K0 907 063 N
   Component: BCM1 1.0      H30 0392 
   Coding: 260050914034AF211701000000001D0D009D030806010141000000

   Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 8K2 955 119 A    HW: 8T2 955 119   Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
   Component: WWS 031110  H05 0070
   Coding: 00FD11

   Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 8K0 955 559     HW: 8K0 955 559   Labels: 8K0-955-559.CLB
   Component: RLS  H04 0003
   Coding: 025028

   Subsystem 3 - Part No SW: 8K0 941 531 AL    HW: 8K0 941 531 AL
   Component: E1 - LDS  H08 0090

4 Faults Found:
02897 - Supply Voltage for LED Module for DRL and Parking Light; Right
            012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00101100
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 162
                    Mileage: 94456 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2015.09.26
                    Time: 13:00:00

00979 - Lamp for Low Beam; Right (M31)
            012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00101100
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 10
                    Reset counter: 163
                    Mileage: 92334 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2015.09.03
                    Time: 20:11:00

01500 - Bulb for Fog-Lamps; Right (L23)
            012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 01101100
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 30
                    Mileage: 79553 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2014.12.05
                    Time: 09:08:00

03207 - Charisma Switch Module
            004 - No Signal/Communication
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 01100100
                    Fault Priority: 3
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 79
                    Mileage: 80374 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2015.01.04
                    Time: 12:37:00


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533)       Labels: 8T0-907-468.clb
   Part No SW: 8T0 907 468 AD    HW: 8T0 907 468 K
   Component: GW-BEM 4CAN-M H09 0117 
   Coding: 00CF07

   Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 8X0 915 181     HW: 8X0 915 181
   Component: J367-BDM  H07 0140

   Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 8K0 959 663     HW: 8K0 959 663
   Component: J532_DCDCStab  H17 0042

2 Faults Found:
02256 - Quiescent Current
            001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 01100001
                    Fault Priority: 7
                    Fault Frequency: 210
                    Reset counter: 128
                    Mileage: 80485 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2015.01.05
                    Time: 23:30:00

03041 - Energy Management Active
            000 - - - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00100000
                    Fault Priority: 7
                    Fault Frequency: 235
                    Reset counter: 166
                    Mileage: 80485 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2015.01.06
                    Time: 03:30:00

             Freeze Frame:
                    Bin. Bits:    00000
                    Voltage: 12.50 V
                    Count: 17


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 55: Xenon Range        Labels: 8T0-907-357.clb
   Part No SW: 8H0 907 357 C    HW: 8H0 907 357 C
   Component: AFS 1           H01 0030             
   Coding: 0000019

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8K0 941 329
   Component: AFS-Modul links H02 S001

   Subsystem 2 - Part No: 8K0 941 329
   Component: AFS-Modul rechtsH02 S001

1 Fault Found:
02234 - Right Headlight Power Output Stage (J668)
            004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00100100
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 10
                    Mileage: 94456 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2015.09.26
                    Time: 13:00:05

If anyone has any ideas/opinions I’d be grateful, I’ll probably take it to an auto electrician to see if they have any opinions before I involve the dealer.

Thanks,
Mark

NHN

Swap the headlights across & see if the fault follows or stays on that side, this will advise more where the fault may lay.

Ok, good idea, I’ll try this tonight. Thanks

Источник

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Источник

Вложения:

First of all, what does “Dipped Headlight” even mean?

What to Check First

Headlight Bulbs

Headlight Ballasts

Auto Leveling Sensor

Headlight Swivel Module

VAG-com adjustments (reset to factory spec)

The Last Resort – Replace the Whole Darn Thing