Забор наклонился как исправить

1. 

   1

   Buy 1-2 E-Z Mender brackets, depending on how crooked your post is. An E-Z Mender bracket is a metal bracket specifically designed for fixing leaning fence posts. Purchase 1 bracket per post if the post just has a minor lean and 2 if it is leaning drastically or has a crack or other structural damage. These brackets are available at a home improvement center, garden center, hardware store, or online.^[1]
   

   • Note that this method will only work for 4 in (10 cm) by 4 in (10 cm) wooden fence posts that are driven directly into the soil. It won’t work for fence posts encased in concrete or posts that are bigger, since the brackets are designed to fit around the wood.
   • An alternative to the E-Z Mender bracket is a Post Buddy stake, which works best if the post is rotted and broken at ground level because the tip is designed to sink into the wood itself. The steps for installation are essentially the same, though a Post Buddy can also work on rotten fence posts that are set in concrete.

2. 

   2

   Push the tip of an E-Z Mender bracket into the ground at the base of the post. Place the pointy end of the bracket right up against the base of the leaning post. Ensure that the bracket is straight.^[2]
   

   • It’s very important to get the tip as close as possible to the base of the post in order to stabilize and support it below ground as well as above ground.

   Tip: If you have 3 or more leaning fence posts and whole sections of fence that are crooked, it’s better to replace the posts or perhaps rebuild the whole fence or section of fence. Straightening the posts might only be a temporary fix if your fence is old and worn out.

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3. 

   3

   Hit the bump on the side of the bracket with a mallet to drive it into the ground. E-Z Mender brackets have a bump called a nailing lug jutting out from the side, which has a flat surface approximately the size of a mallet. Use a mallet to hit this nailing lug, driving it into the earth, until it is even with the ground or won’t go any deeper.^[3]
   

   • You could use a mini sledgehammer to drive the bracket into the ground if you don’t have a mallet.

4. 

   4

   Screw the bracket to the post using 1 in (2.5 cm) coated structural screws. Have someone push the leaning post up straight and support it so it sits flush in the bracket while you secure it in place. Use a power drill to drive 1 in (2.5 cm) coated structural screws through the screw holes in the sides of the bracket.^[4]
   

   • If you don’t have structural screws, you could use hot-dipped galvanized nails instead.

5. 

   5

   Install another bracket on the other side of the post if you want more stability. Drive an additional E-Z Mender bracket into the ground on the other side of the post and screw it to the post if your post was leaning drastically or damaged. Skip this if the post is straight and stable after installing just 1 bracket.^[5]
   

   • If you used a Post Buddy stake as an alternative, you must install a second stake opposite the first one for optimal stability. They come in sets of 2 for this reason.

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1. 

   1

   Purchase 1 Fix-a-Fence post brace per leaning post. A Fix-a-Fence brace is a metal brace that is meant to be set in concrete and then screwed to a leaning fence post to straighten and stabilize it. Buy 1 per post you want to fix at a home improvement center, garden center, hardware store, or online.^[6]
   

   • This method works for wooden fence posts of any size that are set into concrete footings. You could also use it to straighten wooden posts set directly into the ground if you want the added stability of a brace set into concrete.

2. 

   2

   Dig a hole 8 in (20 cm) away from the post with a clam-shell post digger. Center the hole behind the post in the opposite direction from that which it is leaning in. Dig it 8 in (20 cm) away from the post and 18 in (46 cm) deep.^[7]
   

   • The part of the Fix-a-Fence brace that goes in the ground is 18 in (46 cm) long, so that’s why you have to dig the hole 18 in (46 cm) deep.
   • If you don’t have a clam-shell post digger, you can use a regular spade. Try to make the sides of the hole as vertical as possible and make the hole at least 3 times wider than the pole part of the Fix-a-Fence brace.

3. 

   3

   Assemble the Fix-a-Fence brace by screwing the pole into the brace. Fix-a-Fence braces come in 2 pieces. Screw the pole-shaped section into the hole underneath the short arm of the rectangular brace section.^[8]
   

   • The round pole section is what goes in the ground and the rectangular brace section is what supports the fence post.

4. 

   4

   Mix a 60 lb (27 kg) bag of fast-setting concrete in a wheelbarrow. Pour the powdered concrete into a wheelbarrow. Mix it with water according to the manufacturer’s instructions, using a shovel to stir it together thoroughly.^[9]
   

   • Some fast-setting concrete allows you to pour the powder into the hole first, then pour water on top. Always defer to the manufacturer’s instructions for specific mixing directions.

   Warning: Wear a dust mask and protective eyewear when you mix concrete to avoid inhaling concrete dust.

5. 

   5

   Set the pipe straight in the hole and position the brace against the post. Have someone hold the fence post straight while you position the pole section of the brace in the hole and the rectangular part flush against the post. Keep holding the brace in place or have someone else hold it there once you find the correct position needed to straighten the fence post.^[10]
   

6. 

   6

   Fill the hole around the brace with the mixed concrete. Carefully shovel or pour concrete from the wheelbarrow into the hole around the brace, being sure to fill it in evenly on all sides. Stop when it is even with the level of the surrounding ground.^[11]
   

   • Check the position of the brace against the post again and make any minor adjustments before the concrete starts to set.
   • You can use a pole or stick to press the concrete around the base of the brace if there are any air pockets or uneven spots.

7. 

   7

   Wait 1 full day for the concrete to cure. Fast-setting concrete will set in about 4 hours, but takes a full 24 hours to cure completely. Leave the brace alone for the full duration of time to allow it to cure solidly in place before attaching it to the fence post.^[12]
   

   • After the concrete is cured, you can cover it up with top soil to give it a more natural, landscaped look if you want.

8. 

   8

   Attach the brace to the post using the provided screws. Have someone hold the leaning post up flush against the brace. Place the 3 provided screws through the 3 screw holes in the brace and screw them into the wood post using a wrench.^[13]
   

   • The provided screws have a bolt head, rather than a standard screw head, which is why you need a wrench to screw them into the post.

Advertisement

Advertisement

• Always wear protective eyewear and a dust mask when you mix concrete.

Things You’ll Need

• 1-2 E-Z Mender fence repair brackets
• Mallet
• 1 in (2.5 cm) coated structural screws
• Power drill

• Fix-a-Fence brace
• Clam-shell post digger
• Wheelbarrow
• Shovel
• 60 lb (27 kg) bag of concrete
• Wrench
• Protective eyewear
• Dust mask

1. 

   1

   Buy 1-2 E-Z Mender brackets, depending on how crooked your post is. An E-Z Mender bracket is a metal bracket specifically designed for fixing leaning fence posts. Purchase 1 bracket per post if the post just has a minor lean and 2 if it is leaning drastically or has a crack or other structural damage. These brackets are available at a home improvement center, garden center, hardware store, or online.^[1]
   

   • Note that this method will only work for 4 in (10 cm) by 4 in (10 cm) wooden fence posts that are driven directly into the soil. It won’t work for fence posts encased in concrete or posts that are bigger, since the brackets are designed to fit around the wood.
   • An alternative to the E-Z Mender bracket is a Post Buddy stake, which works best if the post is rotted and broken at ground level because the tip is designed to sink into the wood itself. The steps for installation are essentially the same, though a Post Buddy can also work on rotten fence posts that are set in concrete.

2. 

   2

   Push the tip of an E-Z Mender bracket into the ground at the base of the post. Place the pointy end of the bracket right up against the base of the leaning post. Ensure that the bracket is straight.^[2]
   

   • It’s very important to get the tip as close as possible to the base of the post in order to stabilize and support it below ground as well as above ground.

   Tip: If you have 3 or more leaning fence posts and whole sections of fence that are crooked, it’s better to replace the posts or perhaps rebuild the whole fence or section of fence. Straightening the posts might only be a temporary fix if your fence is old and worn out.

   Advertisement

3. 

   3

   Hit the bump on the side of the bracket with a mallet to drive it into the ground. E-Z Mender brackets have a bump called a nailing lug jutting out from the side, which has a flat surface approximately the size of a mallet. Use a mallet to hit this nailing lug, driving it into the earth, until it is even with the ground or won’t go any deeper.^[3]
   

   • You could use a mini sledgehammer to drive the bracket into the ground if you don’t have a mallet.

4. 

   4

   Screw the bracket to the post using 1 in (2.5 cm) coated structural screws. Have someone push the leaning post up straight and support it so it sits flush in the bracket while you secure it in place. Use a power drill to drive 1 in (2.5 cm) coated structural screws through the screw holes in the sides of the bracket.^[4]
   

   • If you don’t have structural screws, you could use hot-dipped galvanized nails instead.

5. 

   5

   Install another bracket on the other side of the post if you want more stability. Drive an additional E-Z Mender bracket into the ground on the other side of the post and screw it to the post if your post was leaning drastically or damaged. Skip this if the post is straight and stable after installing just 1 bracket.^[5]
   

   • If you used a Post Buddy stake as an alternative, you must install a second stake opposite the first one for optimal stability. They come in sets of 2 for this reason.

Advertisement

1. 

   1

   Purchase 1 Fix-a-Fence post brace per leaning post. A Fix-a-Fence brace is a metal brace that is meant to be set in concrete and then screwed to a leaning fence post to straighten and stabilize it. Buy 1 per post you want to fix at a home improvement center, garden center, hardware store, or online.^[6]
   

   • This method works for wooden fence posts of any size that are set into concrete footings. You could also use it to straighten wooden posts set directly into the ground if you want the added stability of a brace set into concrete.

2. 

   2

   Dig a hole 8 in (20 cm) away from the post with a clam-shell post digger. Center the hole behind the post in the opposite direction from that which it is leaning in. Dig it 8 in (20 cm) away from the post and 18 in (46 cm) deep.^[7]
   

   • The part of the Fix-a-Fence brace that goes in the ground is 18 in (46 cm) long, so that’s why you have to dig the hole 18 in (46 cm) deep.
   • If you don’t have a clam-shell post digger, you can use a regular spade. Try to make the sides of the hole as vertical as possible and make the hole at least 3 times wider than the pole part of the Fix-a-Fence brace.

3. 

   3

   Assemble the Fix-a-Fence brace by screwing the pole into the brace. Fix-a-Fence braces come in 2 pieces. Screw the pole-shaped section into the hole underneath the short arm of the rectangular brace section.^[8]
   

   • The round pole section is what goes in the ground and the rectangular brace section is what supports the fence post.

4. 

   4

   Mix a 60 lb (27 kg) bag of fast-setting concrete in a wheelbarrow. Pour the powdered concrete into a wheelbarrow. Mix it with water according to the manufacturer’s instructions, using a shovel to stir it together thoroughly.^[9]
   

   • Some fast-setting concrete allows you to pour the powder into the hole first, then pour water on top. Always defer to the manufacturer’s instructions for specific mixing directions.

   Warning: Wear a dust mask and protective eyewear when you mix concrete to avoid inhaling concrete dust.

5. 

   5

   Set the pipe straight in the hole and position the brace against the post. Have someone hold the fence post straight while you position the pole section of the brace in the hole and the rectangular part flush against the post. Keep holding the brace in place or have someone else hold it there once you find the correct position needed to straighten the fence post.^[10]
   

6. 

   6

   Fill the hole around the brace with the mixed concrete. Carefully shovel or pour concrete from the wheelbarrow into the hole around the brace, being sure to fill it in evenly on all sides. Stop when it is even with the level of the surrounding ground.^[11]
   

   • Check the position of the brace against the post again and make any minor adjustments before the concrete starts to set.
   • You can use a pole or stick to press the concrete around the base of the brace if there are any air pockets or uneven spots.

7. 

   7

   Wait 1 full day for the concrete to cure. Fast-setting concrete will set in about 4 hours, but takes a full 24 hours to cure completely. Leave the brace alone for the full duration of time to allow it to cure solidly in place before attaching it to the fence post.^[12]
   

   • After the concrete is cured, you can cover it up with top soil to give it a more natural, landscaped look if you want.

8. 

   8

   Attach the brace to the post using the provided screws. Have someone hold the leaning post up flush against the brace. Place the 3 provided screws through the 3 screw holes in the brace and screw them into the wood post using a wrench.^[13]
   

   • The provided screws have a bolt head, rather than a standard screw head, which is why you need a wrench to screw them into the post.

Advertisement

Advertisement

• Always wear protective eyewear and a dust mask when you mix concrete.

Things You’ll Need

• 1-2 E-Z Mender fence repair brackets
• Mallet
• 1 in (2.5 cm) coated structural screws
• Power drill

• Fix-a-Fence brace
• Clam-shell post digger
• Wheelbarrow
• Shovel
• 60 lb (27 kg) bag of concrete
• Wrench
• Protective eyewear
• Dust mask

Как в одиночку выпрямить столбы ? Два варианта:
1) К примеру, есть за что зацепиться — крупное дерево — как лучше стянуть столб и дерево — что для этого нужно ? Лебедка или что ?
2) Зацепиться не за что — вбивать в землю колья, а потом по первому варианту — как ?

Какие столбы?. Электрические? Телеграфные? Или от забора?

йцукер написал :
от забора?

да

«Краткость — сестра таланта»©
Гадаем дальше.
Если столбы металлические. Они забетонированы?
А забор снимаем или вместе с ним? А какой он?

йцукер написал :
Если столбы металлические. Они забетонированы?

металлические, забетонированы вроде ближе к поверхности

йцукер написал :
А забор снимаем или вместе с ним? А какой он?

забор деревянный оставляем

Продолжаем прикалываться . Вариант 1 — лебедка/таль. Вариант 2 — не кол, а вбитый в землю под углом лом. Правда, потом появится новая тема — «как вытащить лом».
А если серьезно — столбы выперло после зимы — надо всё переделывать, иначе будете «выпрямлять» каждую весну, пока забор окончательно не рухнет.

SergeyE написал :
металлические, забетонированы вроде ближе к поверхности

При такой установке шансов нормально зимовать у столбов нет.
Бетонировать надо основание столба с приваренными к нему «ушами» или кусками арматуры — получится «шляпка», которая не даст столбу вылезать из земли под действием пучения грунта в морозы.
И заглублять надо на метр минимум, если грутн не песок или скала

SergeyE написал :
металлические, забетонированы вроде ближе к поверхности

Нет, надо точно знать. Предлагаю шурфить.

SergeyE написал :
забор деревянный оставляем

А прожилины тоже деревянные? Или?..

йцукер написал :
прожилины тоже деревянные?

да, но толстые

gpu написал :
Бетонировать надо основание столба с приваренными к нему «ушами» или кусками арматуры — получится «шляпка», которая не даст столбу вылезать из земли под действием пучения грунта в морозы.
И заглублять надо на метр минимум,

знаю, но речь идет о готовом заборе, переделывать который пока никто не хочет

Dimch написал :
Берем якорь. Изготавливается самостоятельно. См. фото.
Покупаем лебедку, провариваем ручку (см. фото)

лебедки нет — без нее нельзя какое-нибудь приспособление придумать ? машиной не подъехать

SergeyE написал :
лебедки нет

Домкратом нельзя?

SergeyE написал :
нельзя какое-нибудь приспособление придумать

Как вариант навскидку:
Приварить стакан по диаметру верха столба к мощному профилю длиной метра 3-4, сварить подкос не менее чем вполовину высоты столба и плутрубу на вершину подкоса — чтобы упиралась в столб. Получится нечто вроде виселицы, только лежачей. Далее — окапываешь основание столба, одеваешь стакан на вершину столба и профилем (рычагом) качаешь-рихтуешь до вертикали собственным весом (или с соседями )
Понятно или надо рисовать?

ЗЫ а домкратом скорее выпрешь столб вверх, чем наклон исправишь.

gpu написал :
Понятно или надо рисовать?

нарисуйте
вроде так только верхушку столба изогнешь

домкратом, наверное от соседа с другой стороны можно толкать — придумывать упоры и т.д.

SergeyE написал :
так только верхушку столба изогнешь

Диаметр трубы, толщина стенки?..

SergeyE написал :
Как в одиночку выпрямить столбы ?

С той стороны, куда нужно наклонить столб, подрезаете на 3/4 окружности (болгарка, газ, сварка) на высоте 70-100мм от бетона. Подгибаете до вертикали и на рез кусок уголка варите.

helmutivan написал :
…»Стиль»может и не понравиться…

Излом трава спрячет.

думаю можно без лебедки попробовать- перекручивая ломом толстую веревку-римляне вроде так делали свои катапульты,главное не улететь))

helmutivan написал :
…что висит-то на столбах?…забор из чего..?

SergeyE написал :
забор деревянный оставляем

SergeyE написал :
Цитата:
Сообщение от йцукер
прожилины тоже деревянные?
да, но толстые

йцукер написал :
Диаметр трубы, толщина стенки?..

Диаметр трубы=90-100мм, толщина стенки=2-3мм

DED написал :
С той стороны, куда нужно наклонить столб, подрезаете на 3/4 окружности (болгарка, газ, сварка) на высоте 70-100мм от бетона. Подгибаете до вертикали и на рез кусок уголка варите.

не — ослаблять конструкцию не буду; выравнивать надо весь столб, а не только верх

А вода есть поблизости? Поливаем нипадецки водой пока грунт в жижу не превратиться, и талью , зацепленною за макушку. Только до высыхания грунта растяжки нужно, иначе под собственным весом завалится. Но все равно- следующей весной все повториться сначала- gpu прав на все 200%.

DSP007 написал :
А вода есть поблизости?

Потому и выпирает…

Я забил один столб криво, пробовал разные способы, не выпрямляется сцобака!
В итоге подрезал снизу, согнул по уровню и заварил место сварки обрезками трубы.

Дык то осенью, а для облегчения выравнивания вода нужна сейчас.

SergeyE написал :
Как в одиночку выпрямить столбы ?

берём например берёзовый чурбак подходящего диаметра,с одной стороны делаем затёс, вбиваем вплотную к бетону или при его отсутствии к буту ,и по мере забивки отжимаем столб туда куда требуется ,наиболее просто это весной когда грунт раскисший

SergeyE написал :
толщина стенки=2-3мм

Мдя… Тонковатая стеночка. Погнётся всё.
А может ну её… Ну предположим выпрямите столбы, а на следующий год опять:

SergeyE написал :
Как в одиночку выпрямить столбы ?

По-хорошему переделывать надо.

дятька написал :
берём например берёзовый чурбак подходящего диаметра,с одной стороны делаем затёс, вбиваем вплотную к бетону или при его отсутствии к буту

бетона и т.д. нет, да и забивать со стороны соседа придется — а там как-раз доски забора

SergeyE написал :
забивать со стороны соседа придется —

да не такая уж и долгая работа,чурбак 0.4-0.5м /я забивал дубовые ,сухостой/ 2 диаметра столба ,затёс ,ну мин 5 с пивом на столб,попробовать один моно,как пойдёт,все проще чем лебёдки ,болгарки,сварка,и пр.заморочки,ваще элементарно делается .если забор мешает, забивать под углом ,далее клин сам пойдёт по столбу вскользь