Злая кошка как исправить

1. 

   1

   Подумайте о причине злости кота. Первичной причиной демонстрации злости или агрессивного поведения у кошек является страх. Кошки не столь хорошо одомашнены, насколько собаки, и легко возвращаются к демонстрации диких привычек. То есть кошки находятся всего в одном шаге от диких животных, а многие дикие животные живут в постоянной готовности ко встрече с источником опасности, включая людей.^[1]
   Список опасностей для кошек возглавляют незнакомцы просто потому, что животное не знает, что из себя представляет конкретный человек, пока не выдастся шанс понаблюдать за ним и убедиться в его дружелюбии. Помните о том, что причина появления страха у кота не всегда может быть для вас сразу очевидной.^[2]
   

   • Например, ваш кот может начать шипеть на малыша, который умудрился дернуть его за хвост, пока вас не было в комнате. Кот может ассоциировать ребенка с причиненной ему болью и бояться его.^[3]
     
   • Плохо социализированный кот может испытывать еще большие страхи в отношении незнакомцев и непривычных обстоятельств.

2. 

   2

   Обратите внимание на поведение, имеющее отношение к появлению злости у животного. Понимание кошачьего языка тела может помочь вам избежать конфликтов. Полезно будет угадывать как признаки страха, так и агрессии. Однако порой они накладываются друг на друга, поэтому не стоит слишком стараться абсолютно точно их разграничить. Важно понимать стрессовое состояние питомца, в котором он может атаковать. Знайте, что кот может перейти из спокойного состояния в состояние страха или злости за считанные секунды. Признаками страха или агрессии могут быть:^{[4]
   [5]}
   

   • поднятие шерсти дыбом;
   • расширение зрачков;
   • прямой взгляд на вас (предшествует нападению);
   • уклонение от зрительного контакта (страх);
   • прижатые усы;
   • прижатые к голове уши;
   • скрюченная поза;
   • рык;
   • оскал и шипение.

3. 

   3

   Подумайте о цели, кроющейся в «злобном» поведении. Несмотря на то, что часто подобное поведение считается признаком того, что кот готовится к нападению, обычно оно скорее говорит о желании подвергшегося стрессу и напуганного кота просто выбраться из сложившейся ситуации.^[6]
   

4. 

   4

   Обратите внимание на признаки «переадресованной агрессии». Этот термин применим в том случае, когда кот срывает свою злость на другом коте или человеке, несмотря на то, что источником гнева был совершенно иной кот или человек. Если такое произойдет с двумя котами, живущими вместе, впоследствии может оказаться достаточно сложно помирить их заново, в зависимости от серьезности произошедшей потасовки.^[7]
   

5. 

   5

   Следите за укусами во время игр. Знайте, что некоторые коты склонны перевозбуждаться во время игр и начинать кусаться и царапаться, что можно спутать с агрессивным поведением.

   • Если ваш кот настроен поиграть более агрессивно, вы всегда можете взять игрушки-удочки, чтобы спасти свои руки от укусов.

6. 

   6

   Умейте различать страх и агрессию, вызванную человеческими ласками. Некоторые кошки нередко проявляют агрессию в ответ на ласки. Проявляется это следующим образом: какое-то время им нравятся поглаживания хозяина, но потом у них внезапно возникает ответная агрессия на это. Однако такое поведение не следует путать со злостью. Далее перечислены возможные причины подобной агрессии.^[8]
   

   • Кошка может использовать подобное поведение, чтобы сказать: «Спасибо, с меня достаточно».
   • Кошка может задремать от удовольствия, а при пробуждении испугаться и укусить из самообороны.
   • Такой вид агрессии часто встречается у котят, которые были единственными в помете, либо у искусственно выкормленных котят. Им не хватает социализации с другим котятами, которые могли бы поставить их на место при слишком сильных ударах лапами или укусах. Тем не менее вам НЕ следует лупить кота в ответ. Просто научитесь читать язык тела своего питомца, чтобы видеть, когда животное вот-вот сорвется. Кот может дать единственный сигнал подергиванием хвоста, может перестать мурлыкать, а кожа на его спине может начать подергиваться. На данном шаге немедленно прекратите гладить питомца и встаньте, сняв его со своих колен.^[9]
     

1. 

   1

   Прежде всего позаботьтесь о собственной безопасности. Если ваш кот злится на вас или просто перенаправил агрессию в ваш адрес, то вы являетесь вероятной целью его атаки, что может привести к царапинам и укусам. Однако большинство кошек не склонны на самом деле атаковать, если только не продолжить провоцировать их, после того как они продемонстрировали предупреждающие знаки.

   • Если вам необходимо взять кота на руки, наденьте защитную одежду и набросьте одеяло на питомца, чтобы подчинить его. Однако это всего лишь краткосрочное решение, если требуется поймать животное из-за возможного наличия у него травмы. Это не поможет вам завоевать доверие кота и может даже привести к тому, что питомец станет менее послушным в следующий раз.
   • Если вы живете вместе с котом, всегда держите наготове пульверизатор с водой. Идеальным вариантом может стать опрыскивание злобного кота, если вы не хотите подвергать опасности руки. Это может оказаться достаточным, чтобы разогнать дерущихся котов, и послужит неплохим средством самообороны, если кот решит напасть на вас в результате переадресованной агрессии.

2. 

   2

   Отступите. После выявления у кота поведенческих признаков злости или страха вам лучше всего отступить. Отойдите на шаг от животного, чтобы снизить его страх. Если возможно, покиньте комнату, в которой находится кот; если же кот реагирует на другого человека или на иное животное, выведите их из комнаты. Если вы не можете покинуть помещение, убедитесь в том, что отступили, не перегородив выход коту, так как он со своей стороны тоже может пожелать уйти.^[10]
   

   • Вам, вероятно, следует оставить кота в одиночестве на 10–20 минут, чтобы дать ему возможность успокоиться.
   • Если «угрозой» для кота кажется другой принесенный вами домой кот, то вам необходимо потратить время на проведение десенсибилизации животных, держа их отдельно друг от друга и знакомя лишь постепенно. Более подробную информацию об этом можно найти в следующей статье: «Как принести домой вторую кошку и не расстроить этим первую».

3. 

   3

   Присядьте. Не возвышайтесь над котом и не смотрите ему прямо в глаза, когда он находится в раздраженном состоянии, так как это усиливает у него чувство угрозы. Если ситуация не представляет собой неминуемой опасности и вы хотите помочь испуганному животному почувствовать себя увереннее, либо прилягте на пол, либо присядьте, чтобы казаться ему поменьше.^[11]
   

4. 

   4

   Игнорируйте кота. Не обращайте на кота внимания, тем самым дав ему возможность самостоятельно оценить вас в своем темпе и понять, что вы не представляете угрозы.

   • Для этого примите расслабленную позу и используйте спокойный тон голоса. Поговорите с тем, кто еще находится в комнате, либо просто ласково что-нибудь напевайте. Так вы не усилите напряжение, и у кота создастся впечатление, что ему не о чем беспокоиться.^[12]
     

5. 

   5

   Обеспечьте коту безопасные места укрытий. Зачастую кошкам просто требуется справиться с собственными боязливыми реакциями посредством укрытия в безопасном месте. Например, если ваш кот боится чужих людей, очень вероятно, что он будет пытаться спрятаться при первом же звонке в дверь. Подумайте о том, чтобы разместить кошачью клетку в тихой спокойной комнате, что будет давать питомцу возможность прятаться в ней до того момента, когда он решит снова выйти.^[13]
   

   • Кошки также чувствуют себя в безопасности на высоко расположенных местах. Подумайте об обеспечении кота игровым комплексом в виде башни, у которого будет иметься высоко расположенное укрытие для животного; это особенно полезно, если источником страха кота служит появившаяся в доме собака.

6. 

   6

   Медленно и осторожно подойдите к коту. После того, как предоставите коту время и пространство для успокоения, осторожно приблизьтесь к питомцу, не прикасаясь к нему. Вам необходимо убедиться в том, что все видимые признаки злости исчезли, включая стоящую дыбом шерсть, шипение и изгиб спины. Однако и при отсутствии этих видимых знаков ваш кот все еще может продолжать злиться, испытывать страх и быть воинственно настроенным, поэтому очень важно не торопиться.

7. 

   7

   Позвольте коту подойти к вам. Сядьте или прилягте на пол, взяв в руки угощения. Позвольте коту принюхаться и осмотреться. Даже если он соблюдает дистанцию и просто осматривает вас, в нем постепенно растет уверенность, что вы не представляете угрозы.

   • Если ваш кот не был приучен к общению с людьми в первые 12 недель своей жизни, то этот шаг критически необходим. Попытка навязать первый контакт только заставит кота еще больше бояться вас. Всегда позволяйте питомцу первому решиться на физический контакт, начав с обнюхивания вас, а затем погладившись о вас головой. Так животное перенесет на вас немного своего запаха, что сделает вас несколько безопаснее в глазах питомца. Даже после этого не прикасайтесь к коту. Думайте об этом, как о проверке. Чтобы пройти ее, сохраняйте неподвижность и позвольте коту полагать, что ситуацией владеет именно он. Только когда он начнет регулярно приближаться к вам, вы можете попробовать очень медленно вытянуть к нему руку и попробовать погладить.^[14]
     

8. 

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   Прибегните к помощи корма. Потрясите коробкой с угощениями или открытой банкой с любимыми кошачьими консервами и поместите их в миску для корма. Убедитесь в том, что у кота достаточно свежей воды, так как после сильных переживаний питомец может испытывать сильную жажду. Однако не принуждайте животное есть или пить. Питомец сделает это тогда, когда будет готов.^[15]
   

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   Не наказывайте кота. Никогда ни при каких обстоятельствах не наказывайте своего питомца. Помните, что агрессия порождается страхом — усиливающие страх физические наказания лишь делают агрессию еще более вероятной. Вместо этого боритесь с гневом питомца, выражая свою любовь и проявляя терпение.^[16]
   

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    Обратитесь к ветеринару. Кот может злиться и проявлять агрессию по причине болезни. Если раньше ваш кот был ласков и внезапно стал злобным или агрессивным (либо если вам не помогли все вышеуказанные шаги), обратитесь к ветеринару, чтобы проверить состояние его здоровья.^[17]
    

    • Возможной причиной может быть жар, зубная боль, гингивит, воспаление, раны, артрит, травмы, проблемы с ушами и растяжение мышц. Порой злобное поведение может быть вызвано наличием в пищеварительной системе кошки комков шерсти, которые вызывают у нее колики или гастрит. ^[18]
      
    • Если ветеринар не выявит никаких проблем со здоровьем, он может предложить использовать успокоительные средства, если вашей кошке ничто другое не помогает сохранять спокойствие.
    • Если кот демонстрирует агрессивную реакцию только по отношению к конкретным ситуациям (например, к езде на машине или визитам к ветеринару), то ветеринар может назначить легкие успокоительные для вашего питомца. Их прием позволит заранее успокоить животное перед помещением его в стрессовую ситуацию. После нескольких раз успешного переживания ситуации с помощью успокоительных, скорее всего, вы заметите, что ваш кот стал спокойнее к ним относиться.

11. 

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    Десенсибилизируйте кота к источникам окружающего стресса. В ситуациях, когда человек или предмет, вызывающий у кота боязливую реакцию, не представляет для него реальной угрозы, можно попробовать десенсибилизировать животное к данному источнику стресса тем же путем, каким люди обычно борются с собственными фобиями.^[19]
    

    • Например, если источником стресса служит человек, начните с того, что позвольте коту слушать, как этот человек разговаривает в соседней комнате, пока у питомца не пройдет страх перед его голосом. Затем перейдите к помещению кота и человека в одну комнату в противоположных ее концах, при этом необходимо полностью игнорировать животное, пока присутствие человека не перестанет его пугать. Позвольте человеку начать постепенно приближаться к коту, пока тот, наконец, не решится вступить в контакт.
    • Введите противообуславливающий элемент в десенсибилизацию посредством использования в этом процессе угощений. Это не только снизит подверженность животного стрессу, но и заставит его начать ассоциировать человека с положительными моментами.^[20]
      

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    12

    Имейте терпение. В зависимости от качества социализации кота, которую он прошел, будучи котенком, время выработки у него доверия может варьироваться от нескольких дней до нескольких лет.^[21]
    

• Подумайте о кастрации кота или стерилизации кошки, так как эти операции могут повлиять на уровень гормонов, которые ведут к проявлению доминирующего или агрессивного поведения.
• Если причиной агрессии служит соседский кот, держите своего кота в стенах дома или договоритесь с соседями, чтобы выпускать гулять животных в разное время. Объясните соседям преимущества такого подхода, как для вашего, так и для их кота.
• Перемены в жизни могут заставлять кота чувствовать опасения и злиться. При смене мебели, переезде или изменении режима работы не забывайте предоставлять коту доступ к безопасному тихому месту, где он сможет успокоиться, а также продолжайте регулярно кормить животное и общаться с ним в прежнем режиме.
• Если вы недавно уезжали, оставляя кота под присмотром другого человека, либо если он при этом содержался в клетке, то после вашего возвращения, возможно, вы заметите некоторую агрессию у питомца. Проявите терпение в течение нескольких дней, пока кот к вам снова не привыкнет.
• Кот с избыточным весом может стать агрессивным из-за невозможности вылизать себя при наличии у него блох. Избавьте животное от блох и проконсультируйтесь у ветеринара по вопросу снижения веса животного.

• Добиться перемирия между двумя враждующими котами могут помочь миски с едой и водой. Если они дерутся за еду, установите им индивидуальные миски в разных местах. Кот-задира не сможет находиться в двух местах одновременно, поэтому другой питомец сможет спокойно питаться.
• Если вы переезжаете, будьте готовы к тому, что коту потребуется некоторое время, чтобы привыкнуть к новому месту, если только вы не переезжаете столь часто, что для животного это стало обыденной ситуацией. Не волнуйтесь, обеспечьте коту некоторое пространство, сопроводите сам процесс переезда угощениями и игрушками для кота, чтобы для него переезд представлял что-то приятное, а не только нахождение в запертой клетке и последующую необходимость исследовать новую территорию.
• Если у вас несколько котов, они могут пытаться делить между собой туалетные лотки. Некоторые коты не возражают против совместного использования лотков, другие же категорически против этого. Обеспечьте каждого кота чистым туалетным лотком. Разрешат ли они друг другу совместно пользоваться лотками, решать им самим; это будет зависеть от того, насколько хорошо они ладят, но с вашей стороны важно предоставить им возможность использовать лотки индивидуально — так вы поможете им жить мирно.

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   Look for behavioral patterns. To us, cats can appear baffling or unpredictable, whereas in reality we are just poor are reading their body language and understanding what they are trying to tell us. But what we do know is that there are a number of distinct patterns involved with cat aggression. These can be broken into a series of situation-oriented categories that are not mutually exclusive.^[1]
   

   • Play aggression happens when cats take play too far.
   • Fear/Defense aggression comes from the cat feeling endangered, vulnerable, or trapped.
   • Territorial aggression is usually just among cats, but can be expressed toward humans and other animals.
   • Petting aggression is not well understood, and may come from over-stimulation.
   • Inter-Male aggression relies on the natural competitive nature between toms.
   • Maternal aggression is the queen cat’s instinctual protective response.
   • Redirected aggression can come from frustration the cat cannot vent, which gets redirected toward another target, such as a nearby cat or person.
   • Predatory aggression derives from cats whose predatory instincts are triggered.
   • Pain aggression results from old or current sensations of pain.
   • Idiopathic aggression is spontaneous, and may be a threat to the physical safety of those who come into contact with the cat.

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   2

   Understand your cat’s body language. Knowing when your cat is about to go on the offensive or defensive by watching its body language can be key in managing the problem. Watch out for signs of oncoming aggression, as in:

   • Defensive postures
     • Crouching
     • Head tucked in
     • Tail curved around the body and tucked in
     • Eyes wide open with pupils partially or fully dilated
     • Ears flattened sideways or backward on the head
     • Piloerection (hackles up/hair stands on end)
     • Turning sideways to the opponent, not straight on
     • Open-mouthed hissing or spitting
     • Quick strikes with front paws, claws out
   • Offensive postures
     • A stiff, straight-legged upright stance
     • Stiffened rear legs, with the rear end raised and the back sloped downward toward the head
     • Stiff tail, lowered or held straight down to the ground
     • Direct stare
     • Upright ears, with the backs rotated slightly forward
     • Piloerection (hackles up), including fur on the tail
     • Constricted pupils
     • Directly facing opponent, possibly moving toward him
     • Might be growling, howling or yowling
   • Overt aggression
     • Swatting, striking with paws
     • Biting
     • Fighting
     • Growling, shrieking
     • Scratching
     • Preparing for an all-out attack by rolling onto side or back and exposing teeth and claws.^[2]
       

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3. 

   3

   Note when the aggressive behavior happens. Does the cat become aggressive in the presence of a certain animal or person? In many cases, aggression happens due to a specific trigger. Pay attention to the cat’s environment during instances of aggression, so that you can work out what might be causing it, and improve the cat’s behavior.

4. 

   4

   Recognize maternal cat aggression. Your cat may become aggressive after giving birth. Mothers have instincts to protect their offspring from potential danger. Maternal aggression can occur when a mother cat (called a “queen”) with her kittens is approached by people or other animals whom she perceives as a threat. It’s more often directed at other cats, but it can be directed toward people, as well. Queens can be quite aggressive when defending their young, especially in the first few days after birth.^[3]
   Avoid handling kittens during the first few days of their lives. Introduce yourself slowly.

   • Provide a low stress environment, keep visitors to a minimum, and avoid approaching or handling either the mother or her kittens if you are met with maternal aggression.

5. 

   5

   Talk to your veterinarian or animal behaviorist. This is very important any time you’re dealing with animal aggression, in order to evaluate your options. As there are many different kinds of aggression, some more or less acceptable than others, you will want to make sure your behavior does not worsen the problem.

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1. 

   1

   Give the cat some space. While it’s important to make sure the cat is stimulated by its environment, an aggressive cat is unlikely to want to socialize with people. She needs space to learn trust. Rather than dangling a toy in the cat’s face, don’t try to enforce playtime unless the cat seems to enjoy it.

   • When entering the room with an aggressive cat, avoid eye contact and make sure the cat has have a clear escape route. Do not approach an aggressive cat unless necessary; it’s better to let the cat come to you.
   • If you have to handle the cat, wear thick gloves and long sleeves to avoid getting a scratch injury. To pick the cat up, wrap it snugly in a towel to impede movement.

2. 

   2

   Pay close attention to your cat’s body language. Some cats are easily overstimulated, and their play can escalate into aggression. To a cat, play is connected to how it learns to hunt. Play aggression is the most common type of aggressive behavior owners see in their cats.^[4]
   

   • It’s believed that through play with each other, young cats learn to inhibit their bites and sheathe their claws when swatting.
   • The degree to which individual cats learn to inhibit their rough play varies, and those who were orphaned or weaned early might never have learned to temper their play behavior.
   • Long hours spent alone, without opportunities to play, and owners that encourage their cats to chase and play-attack people’s hands and feet contribute to play aggression.^[5]
     

3. 

   3

   Provide a variety of toys for your cat. Some cats prefer toys that they can throw around themselves. Other cats prefer toys that require owner participation, such as those you wiggle and dangle. Stimulating play for a cat involves opportunities to “hunt,” so move toys in such a way that they mimic the movements of a rodent or bird. Introduce new toys periodically to keep your cat from becoming bored with her toys.^[6]
   

4. 

   4

   Spend at least twenty minutes with your cat, twice a day. Forty minutes is not that long for a person. It means a lot for the relationship between you and your cat. This will enhance the bond between you and your pet, and help your cat work out some energy.

   • For a truly aggressive cat you just need to be in the room, lying on the floor, eyes closed, with treats around you. This gives your cat time to build the confidence to know you are not a threat.
   • Use a fishing pole toy to keep the cat away from your body when playing.
   • Don’t resume playing until your cat is calm if it bites or scratches you.
   • Do not encourage your cat to play with your hands, feet or any other body part. While it may be fun when you have a tiny kitten, it becomes painful and dangerous as your kitten grows up.
   • Do not use toys that teach your cat to play with your hands, such as gloves with balls hanging from the fingers. If you do, your cat will be encouraged to direct his play at your hands.
   • Do not physically punish your cat for rough play. If you hit your cat, she may perceive your actions as play or become fearful of your hands.
   • Don’t run from your cat or try to block its movement with your feet. These actions can cause your cat to intensify its play or become aggressive.

5. 

   5

   Build an outdoor enclosure for your cat. A more complex environment for your cat will keep her stimulated, and she will require less attention from you. An outdoor enclosure not only keeps your cat in, it keeps other animals away from your cat. Make sure to include platforms and places for her to explore and rest.Cats will spend hours watching leaves blow in the wind, birds flying and squirrels scampering around. If you can’t have an outdoor enclosure, try creating a window perch where your cat can easily sit and look out the window.

6. 

   6

   Try pheromones that mimic a natural cat odor. These are similar to the pheromones cats release when they rub their head on an object. This may reduce tension. Use a diffuser while the aggression is being resolved.^[7]
   Talk to a pet professional about brand recommendations and proper application.

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1. 

   1

   Protect cats during feeding times from anything that cause them to exhibit fearful aggression. Examples include loud noises, children, other cats bullying them, and dogs. If your cat fears one or more of these things, it may not eat, and may react aggressively. Keeping your cat’s environment quiet and still during feeding times will help to calm it.

2. 

   2

   Use food to reward your cat for non-aggressive behavior. Cats will normally associate feeding with positive feelings, and so food can be used as a reward to help condition their behavior.^[8]
   There are a number of techniques you can try:

   • To build your cat’s trust, find the cat’s go-to treat and scatter some around the room during a play session. Try holding treats in your hand and dropping them to get the cat to come closer.
   • Expose to aggression-causing stimuli at a safe distance, for short periods of time, then reward with food for non-aggressive behavior. For example, if your cat has an aggressive fear of a specific person, that person might stand at a distance that does not trigger aggressive behavior.
   • When working with other cats, they might be kept in large cages at opposite ends of the room, on leashes, or in harnesses, so they can see the source of aggression, but not escape. After several hours, they might be brought closer together. After many such sessions, it should be possible for them to be close to each other, without becoming defensive.

3. 

   3

   Teach your cat to enjoy getting pet by using treats. Petting aggression isn’t a well understood behavior, even among experienced animal behaviorists. It’s thought that some cats just have sensitive spots or limited tolerance for touch. The next time you pet your cat, watch her closely for signs of irritation. As soon as you recognize ‘tells’ that the cat’s tolerance level is about to be exceeded, stop petting, stand up and tip the cat off your lap.^[9]
   

4. 

   4

   Try to entice an aggressive mother away with some food. This can be an easy way to calmly distract the queen. While she is occupied eating, it will give you an opportunity to care for the kittens, while avoiding the aggressive behavior. This can be used in a process of gradual acclimation.

5. 

   5

   Put your cat on a new meal plan so that you can conduct tolerance sessions just before mealtime. Learn what specific types of behaviors it likes and use only those strokes when training. Also remember to slightly vary your behaviors, as activity that is too repetitive can bore and annoy your cat.^[10]
   

6. 

   6

   Provide several small meals per day rather than one or two large meals to help manage predatory aggression. Avoid “free feeding” (keeping your cat’s bowl full all the time). If your schedule doesn’t permit giving multiple meals, you can purchase a feeder with a built-in timer, designed to open according to a preset schedule. Predatory aggression is shown not to occur when cats eat from a food bowl, but only with objects perceived as prey.^[11]
   

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1. 

   1

   Start with a slow introduction. Most territorial aggression is directed toward other cats. Managing this aggression can progress in much the same way as the fear induced aggression acclimation, with gradual exposure.

   • Confine the cats in separate rooms with litter, food, and water. The two cats should be able to smell and hear each other through the closed door, but there should be no physical contact.
   • After a few days, switch the positions of the cats. Allow your cat to investigate the smells of the newcomer, while the new cat explores the house and the scent of his new playmate.
   • Switch them back after they have had some time to explore.

2. 

   2

   Introduce cats to each other during feeding times. Both cats should be fed at the same time so that they learn to associate the pleasure of eating with each other’s presence.^[12]
   Position one cat on each side of a room, several times a day, and try to feed them small amounts of food. Hungry and occupied with eating, they will begin to associate the other cat with this non-threatening situation.

   • If the cats eat without becoming aggressive, you can then try to bring the food bowls a little closer together each day.
   • If the cats won’t eat or become aggressive, they are probably too close together. Try again later, this time positioning them farther apart.

3. 

   3

   Restrain two combative cats on opposite ends of the same room, either in carriers or restrained with harnesses and leashes. This can be done in combination with other kinds of exposure.

   • This whole process can take weeks or even months. Signs of anxiety or aggression usually indicate that the introductions are proceeding too quickly. If the territorial aggression still cannot be controlled, your veterinarian may prescribe medication for both the aggressor and the victim. Keep in mind that medication is only part of the solution; it must be used in conjunction with slow introductions and consistent rewards for peaceful behavior.

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1. 

   1

   Block your cat’s exposure to the outside world. You can install electronic mats that deliver a harmless, mild shock, or put sticky tape on your windowsills. Window blinds are also effective deterrents. You can discourage outdoor animals from coming near your house by installing motion-activated sprinklers, removing bird feeders, and using well-sealed garbage containers.

2. 

   2

   Muzzle or gently restrain an aggressive mother. This is for situations when the kittens must be handled, and the mother is not permitting it. More is less in this case. Take care not to overly stress any of the cats. A blanket can work in certain situations. Remember that her aggression comes from a deep, instinctual care for her offspring.

3. 

   3

   Interrupt aggression with a loud clap of your hands, spray from a water gun, or a burst of compressed air.^[13]
   If you let the cats fight it out, one or both may become seriously injured, possibly creating more opportunities for aggression in the future. If this kind of aggression is not dealt with, it can progress to fearful aggression.^[14]
   

4. 

   4

   Don’t physically punish your cat for lashing out. Even yelling at it can make the problem worse. Teach your cat to be calm by remaining calm yourself. Aggression on your part can result in additional aggression form your cat.

5. 

   5

   Be mindful that your cat is much smaller than you are. And though she is capable of injuring you, you are also capable of injuring her. At times when your cat becomes aggressive, don’t forcefully throw your cat off of you. She might become afraid of you, or get injured by the fall.

6. 

   6

   Give your cat a time-out. When she plays too rough, end the game by leaving the room. Don’t attempt to pick up your cat and put him in another room for the time-out as this could provoke aggression. Take your time as you do this. You do not want to provoke a chase.

7. 

   7

   Do not console the cat. This can communicate your approval of the aggressive behavior. Visitors should not run or show fear, as this teaches the cat that she can make unwanted visitors go away. Ignoring the cat in this case can prove to be a more effective strategy.^[15]
   

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1. 

   1

   Neuter the cats. Intact males are particularly prone to aggressive behavior among each other. Getting them fixed is the best way to solve this kind of aggression.^[16]
   Although these males may still spray and be prone to other kinds of aggression, this typically resolves inter-male aggression.

2. 

   2

   Resolve or alleviate their pain. This is the best way to manage aggression when it stems from illness or trauma. Pain-induced aggression is triggered by pain, frustration or deprivation, and can be directed toward people, animals and objects. Any animal—including humans—can aggress when in pain. So even a well-socialized, normally docile cat can lash out when it is hurt, when someone tries to touch an injured area, or when it is in pain and anticipates being handled.^[17]
   

3. 

   3

   Have cats with aggression problems examined for underlying medical problems. Painful diseases such as arthritis, dental pain and abscesses from fighting are common sources of pain-related aggression. By diagnosing the problem quickly, you can avoid the cat developing trauma-based aggression. Allowing an issue to remain undiagnosed can cause the problem to worsen.

   • Body postures will usually be defensive. A cat that dislikes being touched in a painful area may display pain-induced aggression in an attempt to stop you from handling it.
   • This behavior can also be associated with past trauma. For example, a cat whose tail was once caught in a door may be protective of its tail long after the pain is gone.^[18]
     

4. 

   4

   Handle sick cats as gently as possible. Wear gloves if necessary, and give them food treats so that they associate your touch with a tasty reward. If they act aggressive while you are handling them, do not reward with kind words and petting; this demonstrates that aggressive behavior is acceptable. Remain calm, and this will help keep them calm.

5. 

   5

   Ask your veterinarian about medications that can help your cat cope with its pain. These can reduce pain-related aggression. There are a variety of medications that are effective at managing pain in cats. It is possible that with the right prescription, you will be able to reduce your cat’s discomfort and aggression.

6. 

   6

   Consult your veterinarian or an animal behaviorist to evaluate your best options in the case of idiopathic aggression. Redirected aggression must be closely considered and ruled out as a possible cause before a diagnosis of idiopathic aggression is made. These cats are dangerous, and owners of such cats should carefully assess their quality of life, as well as the safety of those around them.^[19]
   

   • Find ways to relieve the cat’s stress.
   • Reevaluate the cat’s presence in your home. However, you should be extremely cautious about placing her in a new home; you don’t want to pass your problem on to someone else.

7. 

   7

   Rule out other factors before considering euthanizing your cat. In most cases it is not necessary to put an animal down due to aggression. Consider all other options before taking this route.

   • Aggression from an illness might be a sign of great pain. In cases where the problem cannot be adequately treated with medical care, euthanasia can be the kindest option. Talk with your veterinarian about whether or not this is the best choice, when treatment is too expensive or unlikely to provide relief.
   • Idiopathic aggression includes any type of aggression whose cause can’t be determined or explained through behavior history or medical exam. Cats with this type of aggression can attack their owners violently. They may bite repeatedly and remain in an aroused state for long periods of time. Talk to your vet about how to handle this type of aggression.

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Video

• If your cat is only mildly aggressive and needs some exercise, going on leashed walks is a safe way to take your indoor cat on outdoor adventures. To be safe, make sure your cat always wears identification tags on her collar when walking outside. This may take some time for your cat to get used to. Take shorter walks at first, and then slowly increase the amount of time you bring your cat out.

• In certain cases, cat aggression toward other cats can stem from boredom. Rotate playtime objects frequently, so that your cat doesn’t become bored. Use cardboard boxes, paper shopping bags, packing paper and toys that encourage the cat to investigate. Cats also love to watch birds, squirrels and other small animals. Keep an aquarium with live fish can occupy your cat’s attention, or position bird and squirrel feeders outside windows where your cat can observe animals coming and going during the day. You can also use cat videos. These contain close-ups of birds and small rodents. Many cats can watch the same videotape for hours each day, tracking the animals’ movements, growling or chirruping and swatting at the screen.

• A cat is capable of causing both permanent and life-threatening injuries. Damage to the eyes from claws, and infections cause by bites and scratches may require emergency treatment. Feral cats, outdoor pet cats, and indoor cats can carry rabies, and scratches from any cat can result in an illness with flu-like symptoms, called Cat Scratch Fever.^[20]
  

Did this summary help you?

1. 

   1

   Look for behavioral patterns. To us, cats can appear baffling or unpredictable, whereas in reality we are just poor are reading their body language and understanding what they are trying to tell us. But what we do know is that there are a number of distinct patterns involved with cat aggression. These can be broken into a series of situation-oriented categories that are not mutually exclusive.^[1]
   

   • Play aggression happens when cats take play too far.
   • Fear/Defense aggression comes from the cat feeling endangered, vulnerable, or trapped.
   • Territorial aggression is usually just among cats, but can be expressed toward humans and other animals.
   • Petting aggression is not well understood, and may come from over-stimulation.
   • Inter-Male aggression relies on the natural competitive nature between toms.
   • Maternal aggression is the queen cat’s instinctual protective response.
   • Redirected aggression can come from frustration the cat cannot vent, which gets redirected toward another target, such as a nearby cat or person.
   • Predatory aggression derives from cats whose predatory instincts are triggered.
   • Pain aggression results from old or current sensations of pain.
   • Idiopathic aggression is spontaneous, and may be a threat to the physical safety of those who come into contact with the cat.

2. 

   2

   Understand your cat’s body language. Knowing when your cat is about to go on the offensive or defensive by watching its body language can be key in managing the problem. Watch out for signs of oncoming aggression, as in:

   • Defensive postures
     • Crouching
     • Head tucked in
     • Tail curved around the body and tucked in
     • Eyes wide open with pupils partially or fully dilated
     • Ears flattened sideways or backward on the head
     • Piloerection (hackles up/hair stands on end)
     • Turning sideways to the opponent, not straight on
     • Open-mouthed hissing or spitting
     • Quick strikes with front paws, claws out
   • Offensive postures
     • A stiff, straight-legged upright stance
     • Stiffened rear legs, with the rear end raised and the back sloped downward toward the head
     • Stiff tail, lowered or held straight down to the ground
     • Direct stare
     • Upright ears, with the backs rotated slightly forward
     • Piloerection (hackles up), including fur on the tail
     • Constricted pupils
     • Directly facing opponent, possibly moving toward him
     • Might be growling, howling or yowling
   • Overt aggression
     • Swatting, striking with paws
     • Biting
     • Fighting
     • Growling, shrieking
     • Scratching
     • Preparing for an all-out attack by rolling onto side or back and exposing teeth and claws.^[2]
       

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3. 

   3

   Note when the aggressive behavior happens. Does the cat become aggressive in the presence of a certain animal or person? In many cases, aggression happens due to a specific trigger. Pay attention to the cat’s environment during instances of aggression, so that you can work out what might be causing it, and improve the cat’s behavior.

4. 

   4

   Recognize maternal cat aggression. Your cat may become aggressive after giving birth. Mothers have instincts to protect their offspring from potential danger. Maternal aggression can occur when a mother cat (called a “queen”) with her kittens is approached by people or other animals whom she perceives as a threat. It’s more often directed at other cats, but it can be directed toward people, as well. Queens can be quite aggressive when defending their young, especially in the first few days after birth.^[3]
   Avoid handling kittens during the first few days of their lives. Introduce yourself slowly.

   • Provide a low stress environment, keep visitors to a minimum, and avoid approaching or handling either the mother or her kittens if you are met with maternal aggression.

5. 

   5

   Talk to your veterinarian or animal behaviorist. This is very important any time you’re dealing with animal aggression, in order to evaluate your options. As there are many different kinds of aggression, some more or less acceptable than others, you will want to make sure your behavior does not worsen the problem.

Advertisement

1. 

   1

   Give the cat some space. While it’s important to make sure the cat is stimulated by its environment, an aggressive cat is unlikely to want to socialize with people. She needs space to learn trust. Rather than dangling a toy in the cat’s face, don’t try to enforce playtime unless the cat seems to enjoy it.

   • When entering the room with an aggressive cat, avoid eye contact and make sure the cat has have a clear escape route. Do not approach an aggressive cat unless necessary; it’s better to let the cat come to you.
   • If you have to handle the cat, wear thick gloves and long sleeves to avoid getting a scratch injury. To pick the cat up, wrap it snugly in a towel to impede movement.

2. 

   2

   Pay close attention to your cat’s body language. Some cats are easily overstimulated, and their play can escalate into aggression. To a cat, play is connected to how it learns to hunt. Play aggression is the most common type of aggressive behavior owners see in their cats.^[4]
   

   • It’s believed that through play with each other, young cats learn to inhibit their bites and sheathe their claws when swatting.
   • The degree to which individual cats learn to inhibit their rough play varies, and those who were orphaned or weaned early might never have learned to temper their play behavior.
   • Long hours spent alone, without opportunities to play, and owners that encourage their cats to chase and play-attack people’s hands and feet contribute to play aggression.^[5]
     

3. 

   3

   Provide a variety of toys for your cat. Some cats prefer toys that they can throw around themselves. Other cats prefer toys that require owner participation, such as those you wiggle and dangle. Stimulating play for a cat involves opportunities to “hunt,” so move toys in such a way that they mimic the movements of a rodent or bird. Introduce new toys periodically to keep your cat from becoming bored with her toys.^[6]
   

4. 

   4

   Spend at least twenty minutes with your cat, twice a day. Forty minutes is not that long for a person. It means a lot for the relationship between you and your cat. This will enhance the bond between you and your pet, and help your cat work out some energy.

   • For a truly aggressive cat you just need to be in the room, lying on the floor, eyes closed, with treats around you. This gives your cat time to build the confidence to know you are not a threat.
   • Use a fishing pole toy to keep the cat away from your body when playing.
   • Don’t resume playing until your cat is calm if it bites or scratches you.
   • Do not encourage your cat to play with your hands, feet or any other body part. While it may be fun when you have a tiny kitten, it becomes painful and dangerous as your kitten grows up.
   • Do not use toys that teach your cat to play with your hands, such as gloves with balls hanging from the fingers. If you do, your cat will be encouraged to direct his play at your hands.
   • Do not physically punish your cat for rough play. If you hit your cat, she may perceive your actions as play or become fearful of your hands.
   • Don’t run from your cat or try to block its movement with your feet. These actions can cause your cat to intensify its play or become aggressive.

5. 

   5

   Build an outdoor enclosure for your cat. A more complex environment for your cat will keep her stimulated, and she will require less attention from you. An outdoor enclosure not only keeps your cat in, it keeps other animals away from your cat. Make sure to include platforms and places for her to explore and rest.Cats will spend hours watching leaves blow in the wind, birds flying and squirrels scampering around. If you can’t have an outdoor enclosure, try creating a window perch where your cat can easily sit and look out the window.

6. 

   6

   Try pheromones that mimic a natural cat odor. These are similar to the pheromones cats release when they rub their head on an object. This may reduce tension. Use a diffuser while the aggression is being resolved.^[7]
   Talk to a pet professional about brand recommendations and proper application.

Advertisement

1. 

   1

   Protect cats during feeding times from anything that cause them to exhibit fearful aggression. Examples include loud noises, children, other cats bullying them, and dogs. If your cat fears one or more of these things, it may not eat, and may react aggressively. Keeping your cat’s environment quiet and still during feeding times will help to calm it.

2. 

   2

   Use food to reward your cat for non-aggressive behavior. Cats will normally associate feeding with positive feelings, and so food can be used as a reward to help condition their behavior.^[8]
   There are a number of techniques you can try:

   • To build your cat’s trust, find the cat’s go-to treat and scatter some around the room during a play session. Try holding treats in your hand and dropping them to get the cat to come closer.
   • Expose to aggression-causing stimuli at a safe distance, for short periods of time, then reward with food for non-aggressive behavior. For example, if your cat has an aggressive fear of a specific person, that person might stand at a distance that does not trigger aggressive behavior.
   • When working with other cats, they might be kept in large cages at opposite ends of the room, on leashes, or in harnesses, so they can see the source of aggression, but not escape. After several hours, they might be brought closer together. After many such sessions, it should be possible for them to be close to each other, without becoming defensive.

3. 

   3

   Teach your cat to enjoy getting pet by using treats. Petting aggression isn’t a well understood behavior, even among experienced animal behaviorists. It’s thought that some cats just have sensitive spots or limited tolerance for touch. The next time you pet your cat, watch her closely for signs of irritation. As soon as you recognize ‘tells’ that the cat’s tolerance level is about to be exceeded, stop petting, stand up and tip the cat off your lap.^[9]
   

4. 

   4

   Try to entice an aggressive mother away with some food. This can be an easy way to calmly distract the queen. While she is occupied eating, it will give you an opportunity to care for the kittens, while avoiding the aggressive behavior. This can be used in a process of gradual acclimation.

5. 

   5

   Put your cat on a new meal plan so that you can conduct tolerance sessions just before mealtime. Learn what specific types of behaviors it likes and use only those strokes when training. Also remember to slightly vary your behaviors, as activity that is too repetitive can bore and annoy your cat.^[10]
   

6. 

   6

   Provide several small meals per day rather than one or two large meals to help manage predatory aggression. Avoid “free feeding” (keeping your cat’s bowl full all the time). If your schedule doesn’t permit giving multiple meals, you can purchase a feeder with a built-in timer, designed to open according to a preset schedule. Predatory aggression is shown not to occur when cats eat from a food bowl, but only with objects perceived as prey.^[11]
   

Advertisement

1. 

   1

   Start with a slow introduction. Most territorial aggression is directed toward other cats. Managing this aggression can progress in much the same way as the fear induced aggression acclimation, with gradual exposure.

   • Confine the cats in separate rooms with litter, food, and water. The two cats should be able to smell and hear each other through the closed door, but there should be no physical contact.
   • After a few days, switch the positions of the cats. Allow your cat to investigate the smells of the newcomer, while the new cat explores the house and the scent of his new playmate.
   • Switch them back after they have had some time to explore.

2. 

   2

   Introduce cats to each other during feeding times. Both cats should be fed at the same time so that they learn to associate the pleasure of eating with each other’s presence.^[12]
   Position one cat on each side of a room, several times a day, and try to feed them small amounts of food. Hungry and occupied with eating, they will begin to associate the other cat with this non-threatening situation.

   • If the cats eat without becoming aggressive, you can then try to bring the food bowls a little closer together each day.
   • If the cats won’t eat or become aggressive, they are probably too close together. Try again later, this time positioning them farther apart.

3. 

   3

   Restrain two combative cats on opposite ends of the same room, either in carriers or restrained with harnesses and leashes. This can be done in combination with other kinds of exposure.

   • This whole process can take weeks or even months. Signs of anxiety or aggression usually indicate that the introductions are proceeding too quickly. If the territorial aggression still cannot be controlled, your veterinarian may prescribe medication for both the aggressor and the victim. Keep in mind that medication is only part of the solution; it must be used in conjunction with slow introductions and consistent rewards for peaceful behavior.

Advertisement

1. 

   1

   Block your cat’s exposure to the outside world. You can install electronic mats that deliver a harmless, mild shock, or put sticky tape on your windowsills. Window blinds are also effective deterrents. You can discourage outdoor animals from coming near your house by installing motion-activated sprinklers, removing bird feeders, and using well-sealed garbage containers.

2. 

   2

   Muzzle or gently restrain an aggressive mother. This is for situations when the kittens must be handled, and the mother is not permitting it. More is less in this case. Take care not to overly stress any of the cats. A blanket can work in certain situations. Remember that her aggression comes from a deep, instinctual care for her offspring.

3. 

   3

   Interrupt aggression with a loud clap of your hands, spray from a water gun, or a burst of compressed air.^[13]
   If you let the cats fight it out, one or both may become seriously injured, possibly creating more opportunities for aggression in the future. If this kind of aggression is not dealt with, it can progress to fearful aggression.^[14]
   

4. 

   4

   Don’t physically punish your cat for lashing out. Even yelling at it can make the problem worse. Teach your cat to be calm by remaining calm yourself. Aggression on your part can result in additional aggression form your cat.

5. 

   5

   Be mindful that your cat is much smaller than you are. And though she is capable of injuring you, you are also capable of injuring her. At times when your cat becomes aggressive, don’t forcefully throw your cat off of you. She might become afraid of you, or get injured by the fall.

6. 

   6

   Give your cat a time-out. When she plays too rough, end the game by leaving the room. Don’t attempt to pick up your cat and put him in another room for the time-out as this could provoke aggression. Take your time as you do this. You do not want to provoke a chase.

7. 

   7

   Do not console the cat. This can communicate your approval of the aggressive behavior. Visitors should not run or show fear, as this teaches the cat that she can make unwanted visitors go away. Ignoring the cat in this case can prove to be a more effective strategy.^[15]
   

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1. 

   1

   Neuter the cats. Intact males are particularly prone to aggressive behavior among each other. Getting them fixed is the best way to solve this kind of aggression.^[16]
   Although these males may still spray and be prone to other kinds of aggression, this typically resolves inter-male aggression.

2. 

   2

   Resolve or alleviate their pain. This is the best way to manage aggression when it stems from illness or trauma. Pain-induced aggression is triggered by pain, frustration or deprivation, and can be directed toward people, animals and objects. Any animal—including humans—can aggress when in pain. So even a well-socialized, normally docile cat can lash out when it is hurt, when someone tries to touch an injured area, or when it is in pain and anticipates being handled.^[17]
   

3. 

   3

   Have cats with aggression problems examined for underlying medical problems. Painful diseases such as arthritis, dental pain and abscesses from fighting are common sources of pain-related aggression. By diagnosing the problem quickly, you can avoid the cat developing trauma-based aggression. Allowing an issue to remain undiagnosed can cause the problem to worsen.

   • Body postures will usually be defensive. A cat that dislikes being touched in a painful area may display pain-induced aggression in an attempt to stop you from handling it.
   • This behavior can also be associated with past trauma. For example, a cat whose tail was once caught in a door may be protective of its tail long after the pain is gone.^[18]
     

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   Handle sick cats as gently as possible. Wear gloves if necessary, and give them food treats so that they associate your touch with a tasty reward. If they act aggressive while you are handling them, do not reward with kind words and petting; this demonstrates that aggressive behavior is acceptable. Remain calm, and this will help keep them calm.

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   Ask your veterinarian about medications that can help your cat cope with its pain. These can reduce pain-related aggression. There are a variety of medications that are effective at managing pain in cats. It is possible that with the right prescription, you will be able to reduce your cat’s discomfort and aggression.

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   Consult your veterinarian or an animal behaviorist to evaluate your best options in the case of idiopathic aggression. Redirected aggression must be closely considered and ruled out as a possible cause before a diagnosis of idiopathic aggression is made. These cats are dangerous, and owners of such cats should carefully assess their quality of life, as well as the safety of those around them.^[19]
   

   • Find ways to relieve the cat’s stress.
   • Reevaluate the cat’s presence in your home. However, you should be extremely cautious about placing her in a new home; you don’t want to pass your problem on to someone else.

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   Rule out other factors before considering euthanizing your cat. In most cases it is not necessary to put an animal down due to aggression. Consider all other options before taking this route.

   • Aggression from an illness might be a sign of great pain. In cases where the problem cannot be adequately treated with medical care, euthanasia can be the kindest option. Talk with your veterinarian about whether or not this is the best choice, when treatment is too expensive or unlikely to provide relief.
   • Idiopathic aggression includes any type of aggression whose cause can’t be determined or explained through behavior history or medical exam. Cats with this type of aggression can attack their owners violently. They may bite repeatedly and remain in an aroused state for long periods of time. Talk to your vet about how to handle this type of aggression.

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• If your cat is only mildly aggressive and needs some exercise, going on leashed walks is a safe way to take your indoor cat on outdoor adventures. To be safe, make sure your cat always wears identification tags on her collar when walking outside. This may take some time for your cat to get used to. Take shorter walks at first, and then slowly increase the amount of time you bring your cat out.

• In certain cases, cat aggression toward other cats can stem from boredom. Rotate playtime objects frequently, so that your cat doesn’t become bored. Use cardboard boxes, paper shopping bags, packing paper and toys that encourage the cat to investigate. Cats also love to watch birds, squirrels and other small animals. Keep an aquarium with live fish can occupy your cat’s attention, or position bird and squirrel feeders outside windows where your cat can observe animals coming and going during the day. You can also use cat videos. These contain close-ups of birds and small rodents. Many cats can watch the same videotape for hours each day, tracking the animals’ movements, growling or chirruping and swatting at the screen.

• A cat is capable of causing both permanent and life-threatening injuries. Damage to the eyes from claws, and infections cause by bites and scratches may require emergency treatment. Feral cats, outdoor pet cats, and indoor cats can carry rabies, and scratches from any cat can result in an illness with flu-like symptoms, called Cat Scratch Fever.^[20]
  

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Результат доказан исследованиями

Клинические исследования препарата соответствуют мировым стандартам. У 100% кошек, которым применялся препарат во время проведения исследований, снизилось проявление страха и тревоги.

Таблетка понравится питомцу

Таблетка Экспресс Успокоина имеет мясной вкус. Поэтому ваш четвероногий друг самостоятельно съест препарат с ладони или с небольшим количеством лакомства.

Как применять Экспресс Успокоин

Таблетку дают кошке в пасть однократно, на корень языка за 1 час до еды или через 2-4 часа после кормления. Для коррекции поведения питомца перед тревожным событием необходимо дать Экспресс Успокоин за 1-2 часа до мероприятия.

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